Another Lift Kit Question

[tommudd]

remove the nut all the way off
then run it back up on a few threads so everything does not fly apart on ya

 

[lfhoward]

Not necessary or advisable. Don’t do any cutting to the UCA pockets.

JBA UCA Installation: I'm looking over the directions and it mentions "opening up the UCA pockets". Is this needed with the 2.5" lift I am doing?

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You can see even at full droop my UCA’s don’t contact the bottom of the pocket very much if at all. No cutting/ clearancing needed there. Rounding them with a ball peen hammer so the lower surface becomes a cradle for the UCA is a good idea from Tom, but I never needed to do that. Unless I am running with no front sway bar (which I never do), the UCA’s will never get that far down.

 

[streetsnake]

Gentleman, If worse comes to worse. Can I cut right above the knuckle to cut the ball joint off...since I'm putting the JBA UCAs on?

 

[lfhoward]

One more tip- the right and left UCA’s are different, also when you get to the point of installing them be sure they are on the correct side. I don’t remember if they came labeled as R & L.

 

[lfhoward]

Gentleman, If worse comes to worse. Can I cut right above the knuckle to cut the ball joint off...since I'm putting the JBA UCAs on?

Yes, feel free to employ the cutoff wheel. Just make sure the knuckle is protected, along with your eyeballs.

 

[streetsnake]

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You can see even at full droop my UCA’s don’t contact the bottom of the pocket very much if at all. No cutting/ clearancing needed there. Rounding them with a ball peen hammer so the lower surface becomes a cradle for the UCA is a good idea from Tom, but I never needed to do that. Unless I am running with no front sway bar (which I never do), the UCA’s will never get that far down.

Sorry, no cutting to the pockets, cutting the ball joint off. Disregard...just saw your message

 

[lfhoward]

Cutting above the nut but below the knuckle is what you want, because there is taper to the ball joint. Cut it off above and it is still stuck in the knuckle.

 

[tommudd]

Shold not have to cut
Never had to do that
If a PRY BAR in spring does not work a socket on bottom stem will hold it, then tighten back up and go again

 

[lfhoward]

Shold not have to cut
Never had to do that
If a PRY BAR in spring does not work a socket on bottom stem will hold it, then tighten back up and go again

Go with what Tom says. He has more experience at this than me.

 

[streetsnake]

Is the correct alignment I’m shooting for after UCAs and lift?

 

[lfhoward]

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Here is one of mine. Keep in mind I am at 4” not 2.5” so it is a bit harder to align. The alignment shop may need to sacrifice a bit of caster to get the camber and toe correct, but that’s ok. The camber and toe are more important for tire wear and safe handling.

 

[streetsnake]

Geez. The mechanics make it look a lot easier in the videos. LOL I looked at these UCAs, I could find no markings at all. I compared it to the one I pulled off. Long arm goes toward the back, correct? Passenger side, if it matters.

 

[tommudd]

Is the correct alignment I’m shooting for after UCAs and lift?

Camber and toe set to OE specs
Caster anywhere from 2 degrees to 3.5 degrees and but no more than 0.5 degrees cross caster

 

[streetsnake]

So the other side...I was able to get the nut off the ball joint but the ball joint won't come loose. Hammer on it, anti-seize, used the jack on it, but nada. Is this the proper tool?

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[tommudd]

So the other side...I was able to get the nut off the ball joint but the ball joint won't come loose. Hammer on it, anti-seize, used the jack on it, but nada. Is this the proper tool?

16 in. Ball Joint Separator

Amazing deals on this Ball Joint Separator at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

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No on the pickle fork, devils tools
Just a 3 lb hammer and think of an exwife if ya have one
Just have to give them a good whack, no tap tap taps

 

[streetsnake]

No on the pickle fork, devils tools
Just a 3 lb hammer and think of an exwife if ya have one
Just have to give them a good whack, no tap tap taps

Really? I whacked that thing has hard as I could with a dead-**** hammer from every angle I could. I know a regular 3 lb hammer would be more impact but do you think it’ll do that much better thank the dead ****? Thx

 

[tommudd]

Yes I do, never had one I could not do that way
Dead blows won't do it
Seen em tried with dead blows and with one whack with 3 lb I knocked them loose
so yes ,...really

 

[streetsnake]

Yes I do, never had one I could not do that way
Dead blows won't do it
Seen em tried with dead blows and with one whack with 3 lb I knocked them loose
so yes ,...really

Lol. Okay. I’ll grab that and give it a hit.

 

[streetsnake]

Yes I do, never had one I could not do that way
Dead blows won't do it
Seen em tried with dead blows and with one whack with 3 lb I knocked them loose
so yes ,...really

Well, 5 hits later and it is loose. I wish I would've asked a long time ago. Wasted a lot of time. Ugh. Thanks Tom

 

[tommudd]

NOW.................................
when you get the coilovers shoved up in place start the two inside bolts on
Then position the clevis to where it should be headed in the right direction
Using two ratchet straps , attach one on each leg, then to the other side and then easily pull them into place
This is another area where people spend too much time on a simple task
and yes, ......it really work , wink wink
Oh and make sure your brake hose in inside/behind the spindle before bolting the ball joint up