High output alternator

[JeepJeepster]

Forgot to mention it but I have done that already. 0 gauge going from + to alternator terminal, - going from batt to alternator bolt, - going to chassis. That actually helped the dimming a fair bit.

Cool, do you have any pictures of this? Plan on doing it whenever I get time. Where did you ground it from the battery - to the chassis?

 

[J-Thompson]

Forgot to mention it but I have done that already. 0 gauge going from + to alternator terminal, - going from batt to alternator bolt, - going to chassis. That actually helped the dimming a fair bit.

This leads me to think that you can supply the needed power
but can not return it ,so to speak

I would go from the battery to the amp
I would use the split terminals that split off from the one post and make
it so you have 1 post and 1 clamp tight connection
use the post for the OE style cables and the clamp for the AMP wires

 

[eradicator006]

This is the email I received yesterday from DC Power:


Hello Ryan,

Thanks for contacting us regarding an alternator for your Jeep. The PCM works fine with the bigger alternator. The PCM doesn’t control the output of the alternator, it’s the actual regulator in the alternator itself. The Chrysler PCM limiting output is a myth. The 260 will put out 260 amps as designed and won’t mess with the factory PCM.

All of the alternators we build are 100% new, and we only use 100% USA made parts for the highest quality, best performing, and longest lasting alternator you can get. We also back it up with the best customer service you can get along with a one year standard warranty.

Please let me know if you have any other questions or concerns.
-----------
Thanks,
Kyle Cannon

Direct: (888) 441-0144
Cell: (714) 699-3211

The Biggest and Baddest High Output Alternators on the Planet.
http://www.dcpowerinc.com


Anyone care to challenge their statement?

Never mind. I take back my statement that the OE alternator could in fact have a regulator.

DESCRIPTION
The Electronic Voltage Regulator (EVR) is not a separate component. It is actually a voltage regulat- ing circuit located within the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). The EVR is not serviced separately. If replacement is necessary, the PCM must be replaced.

Cool, do you have any pictures of this? Plan on doing it whenever I get time. Where did you ground it from the battery - to the chassis?

No, sorry, I do not have any pictures at this time. I grounded to some bolt that is on the front of the jeep directly across from the battery. I sanded the area down to bare metal. I then attached the ring terminal to the bolt. Then I painted the area with some black paint to prevent any rusting.

 

[JeepJeepster]

Sounds good. I recently added a 600 watt(peak) 4 channel amp and some pioneer components. I rarely turn up the bass really loud(400watt RMS sub) but I did the other night and with the 4 channel amp, even the dash lights were dimming pretty bad. My head lights have always dimmed a little but Ive never noticed the dash lights dimming like that. Gonna have to do the big 3 now I suppose.

 

[J-Thompson]

No, sorry, I do not have any pictures at this time. I grounded to some bolt that is on the front of the jeep directly across from the battery. I sanded the area down to bare metal. I then attached the ring terminal to the bolt. Then I painted the area with some black paint to prevent any rusting.

the paint may have caused the problem
it could have seeped down between the ring and the "frame"
how big is the "bolt" IIRC it needs to be at least the same OD as the wire AWG to work properly ,1/4" bolt is pointless on 1/0 wire
also the ring OD needs to have the same surface area as the wire flattened out
again for 1/0 wire that would need to quite big
then there is the ability to properly install the ring on the wire
and for the best out come soldier should be used
but to soldier 1/0 you need a propane torch

the little things go a long way
I have the tools to crimp on rings down to 1/0 ,properly
the crimper cost close to $200 and for good reason
I have mad cables for guys with winches and with only 1 battery and OE alt. they dont complain about these things
this leads me to believe it is a wiring issue ,I could be wrong

 

[tjkj2002]

Still don't see how you guy's have issues...................

Stock charging system(136amp alt) in my KJ with a Odyssey PC1500 battery.I also have the renny lightbar and 2 KC HID lights,two 10" subs with a 750watt mono amp,and a WARN XP9500 winch.

I get no dimming even when all my lights are on and my stereo cranked up.They will dim though with everything on and I start the winch but that is understandable when the winch is drawing over 400amps alone.


Oh and the PCM still will not "accept" a higher output alt,will still act like the stock alternator so basically wasting money.

 

[LibertyFever]

Y'know I'm really curious, just what type of music are you fellows with your huge stereo systems listening to? I thought Disco was dead (partysmile)

 

[ATXKJ]

KJ CHARGING SYSTEM 8F - 31
VOLTAGE REGULATOR
DESCRIPTION
The Electronic Voltage Regulator (EVR) is not a
separate component. It is actually a voltage regulating
circuit located within the Powertrain Control
Module (PCM). The EVR is not serviced separately. If
replacement is necessary, the PCM must be replaced.
OPERATION
The amount of DC current produced by the generator
is controlled by EVR circuitry contained within
the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). This circuitry
is connected in series with the generators second
rotor field terminal and its ground.
Voltage is regulated by cycling the ground path to
control the strength of the rotor magnetic field. The
EVR circuitry monitors system line voltage (B+) and
battery temperature (refer to Battery Temperature
Sensor for more information). It then determines a
target charging voltage. If sensed battery voltage is
0.5 volts or lower than the target voltage, the PCM
grounds the field winding until sensed battery voltage
is 0.5 volts above target voltage. A circuit in the
PCM cycles the ground side of the generator field up
to 100 times per second (100Hz), but has the capability
to ground the field control wire 100% of the time
(full field) to achieve the target voltage. If the charging
rate cannot be monitored (limp-in), a duty cycle
of 25% is used by the PCM in order to have some
generator output. Also refer to Charging Operation
for additional information.

It looks like it's charging to a voltage - not a current - so if you have the demand the alternator should go to max.

 

[eradicator006]

Still don't see how you guy's have issues...................

Stock charging system(136amp alt) in my KJ with a Odyssey PC1500 battery.I also have the renny lightbar and 2 KC HID lights,two 10" subs with a 750watt mono amp,and a WARN XP9500 winch.

I get no dimming even when all my lights are on and my stereo cranked up.They will dim though with everything on and I start the winch but that is understandable when the winch is drawing over 400amps alone.


Oh and the PCM still will not "accept" a higher output alt,will still act like the stock alternator so basically wasting money.

Where do you have your amp grounded to? I was going to run a direct ground to the battery but I don't feel like drilling a hole in the firewall for an additional run of 1/0. If I can find a better spot to ground in the back then I'll go with that. I'm currently grounded underneath the velcro strip at the bottom of the seat back to the floor pan (bare metal spot).

I also plan on upgrading my battery to some sort of AGM. Either an XS Power, Exide Oribital, or Kinetic.

 

[tjkj2002]

Where do you have your amp grounded to? I was going to run a direct ground to the battery but I don't feel like drilling a hole in the firewall for an additional run of 1/0. If I can find a better spot to ground in the back then I'll go with that. I'm currently grounded underneath the velcro strip at the bottom of the seat back to the floor pan (bare metal spot).

I also plan on upgrading my battery to some sort of AGM. Either an XS Power, Exide Oribital, or Kinetic.

Seat belt latch bolt.

 

[jnaut]

Sorry for being slightly off-topic, but back in the day, before computers in cars and what not, charging systems were much simpler and used things like "exciter" circuits to kick off the alternator charging.

Would it be possible to decouple the alternator from the computer altogether and fashion up a charging system more older cars used, and then put in the higher output alternator?

 

[Loki007420]

i know this is a old thread but i was wondering how you fixed your dimming issue? Im having some issues with my lights and dash lights dimming on low bass notes.. Im running 0 gauge power wire from my battery to my audiopipe 1500.1D amp, i am running 0 gauge ground to bare metal under the back seats..

 

[tjkj2002]

i know this is a old thread but i was wondering how you fixed your dimming issue? Im having some issues with my lights and dash lights dimming on low bass notes.. Im running 0 gauge power wire from my battery to my audiopipe 1500.1D amp, i am running 0 gauge ground to bare metal under the back seats..

Use a better battery like the Odyssey PC1500 or Dieshard Platinum P1/P4.

 

[mtrionfo]

I am not so much into car audio (perfectly happy with original Infinity system and upgraded speakers), but you might want to look at adding a capacitor to your system. Sometimes upgrading wires can make the dimming problem worse as the amp can now pull power from the rest of the system even more easily. The cap will provide a ready reserve when the amp demands it.

From Crutchfield:
- Upgrading your car's electrical system: the big 3, a new alternator, or a second battery

Good luck.

 

[TheBlueKJ]

I'm more then likely going to add a capacitor soon enough so I don't have to deal with the dimming, even though mine is very hard to notice if noticeable at all.

 

[trent.brown]

x2 on the cap

 

[tjkj2002]

I am not so much into car audio (perfectly happy with original Infinity system and upgraded speakers), but you might want to look at adding a capacitor to your system. Sometimes upgrading wires can make the dimming problem worse as the amp can now pull power from the rest of the system even more easily. The cap will provide a ready reserve when the amp demands it.

From Crutchfield:
- Upgrading your car's electrical system: the big 3, a new alternator, or a second battery

Good luck.

I'm more then likely going to add a capacitor soon enough so I don't have to deal with the dimming, even though mine is very hard to notice if noticeable at all.

x2 on the cap

Your amp is directly connected to the battery.Get a better battery and the dimming will not happen unless you go way overboard on stereo crap.


I never having dimming unless I use my winch but will over a 400amp draw no alternator will or battery will stop that.

 

[TheBlueKJ]

Your amp is directly connected to the battery.Get a better battery and the dimming will not happen unless you go way overboard on stereo crap.


I never having dimming unless I use my winch but will over a 400amp draw no alternator will or battery will stop that.

The next time I need a new battery I'm going with the sears diehard, the battery I have right now is a mopar 640cca

 

[brokendad]

So this is a question for some of us that happen to be just a little OCD. Is the 160amp alternator a direct replacement for the 136amp alternator or are there other electrical issues to consider in making the swap? Also I read about a lot of battery upgrades and want to know what is the opinion of the OPTIMA batteries?

 

[Loki007420]

i do actually have a 10 farad hybrid cap, and i still have the dimming issue.. The only thing the cap did was give me better more crisp bass...