HOW TO: Replace the Blower Control Resistor Block

[w9bko]

Take the two screws out *before* removing the molex connector?? Okay... I'll try that tonight. Thanks.

 

[hyde]

I was at the dealer, getting my **** cracked leaking **$%^# radiator replaced.
I didn't even know about this topic.
I am going there and buying this thing tomorrow (if they have it). If not, I would like to know if there is anyway I can order this online.

PS: Yesterday my FAN #2 died on me. Now I only have #3 and #4.....

 

[hyde]

Click on images for full size picture.

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On the package it said "Made in USA" but inside, it says "Mexico"..

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You need 5/16 key to unscrew.

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Disconnect Battery Negative

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Remove the Glovebox by sliding it to right.

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Remove the Panel, otherwise you may not have enough room to unscrew the second screw.

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Pull it down

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Located the Resistor Harness

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Pull the red lock (the picture shows it already pulled).
And pull the wiring harness.

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Unscrew the top screw using a driver, and the bottom using a key since driver won't fit there, this is why I had to remove the panel on mine.

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They look a little different, notice the jel, probably to increase conductivity? (On the Stock one, replacement does not have the jel)

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Close-up.

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Install and Screw it back, picture from the bottom.

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Follow reverse order and complete.
Connect negative back.. At this point I heard a "Pop" from somewhere inside, I don't know if something popped or went back, I am not sure, but I tried the blower, it was working on position 1. I did not take the Jeep for a spin since I had just washed it and it started raining.. Will report back tomorrow if the jeep runs at all! ​

 

[JeepJeepster]

You mean, "Connect Negative back."

Check for corrosion under your position battery terminal cover. It looks like some is sneaking out on you. If you have some. Mix up a backing soda paste(with water) and brush it on all the posts and connectors. Rinse it off and youre done.

Not sure what the 'pop' could of been but keep an eye on it. Could of been a simple relay clicking on but you never know.

 

[hyde]

Yeah, negative. Thanks. Since i was thinking "reverse order" crazy logic of mine made me type positive.

I will be replacing the battery soon, so I don't really plan on cleaning it. I checked the positive last time and it was a mess, probably it is now messier. It took me a while to unbind the negative, it was almost welded!

That pop -- It is a mystery to me. It did not pop immediately after connecting it maybe about 5 seconds after I heard the ding.

 

[JeepJeepster]

hmm, it could of been the rear cargo door solenoid popping. If you unhook the battery then hook it back up it will click.. Sounds kinda like it would if you opened just the flipper glass.

 

[hyde]

Yeah, I think that's what it sounded like. Pop/Click kind of.
Thanks!

 

[ATP]

Just replaced mine, 1-3 died out over time. The instructions on how to remove the resistor block should be corrected so that you remove the two bolts, pull out the block with the plug still connected, and THEN you unlock the plug and remove it. Because trying to wrestle the plug out with the block still in place is a ***** and a half. Once I removed the block and did it the other way, it took 3 minutes. The bottom bolt was tough to get out but nothing too hard. Thanks for the inofrmation everybody. Mine was $21.90 at Jeep.

 

[tan's2002kjlimited]

Mine was $21.90 at Jeep.

I'm down to just high only. Good thing Chicagoland has lots of dealers around. Funny though, I called 3 different dealers, and got 3 different prices, from $20 to $26... interesting.

 

[hyde]

There is a little tab that you push, (after you pull the red lock tab). It was pretty easy to remove it, as long as you pushed on that tab to release it. Either way, it would work..

 

[AVR2]

I had to replace my resistor about six months ago. Why is the how-to on this site the only one on the web that points out the non-trivial fact that you will probably have to remove the lower dashboard panel and get at the lower screw from beneath? Even the official KJ service manual doesn't mention it.

Does everybody else have some kind of magic bendy tool that means they can remove the lower screw by coming in from the glovebox opening?

 

[Phumnicky]

Missing Red Locking tab

I have found the resistor and moved the other wires out of the way.

The little red locking tab is missing (I think it was broken off recently at my mechanic garage). GRRRRRR http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/images/smilies/confused.gif http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/images/smilies/mad.gif

Any suggestions as to how to get the wiring harness unplugged with the locking tab missing?

--Phill

 

[sailorbowman]

Many Thanks

Valvestem,

Thanks for your great photos of the blower resistor. You just confirmed to me that I removed the correct component and I hope to replace it tomorrow.

Sincerely,
Rick

 

[sailorbowman]

Removing the blower resistor

AN 8 mm open end wrech and a 8mm socket with a racket extension will remove the resistor from a 2006 liberty. I removed the glove box door first.

 

[HoosierJeeper]

Because JKJ is awesome !!!

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Thanks to its members ofcourse!

x2!!!!

 

[lykthewind]

AN 8 mm open end wrech and a 8mm socket with a racket extension will remove the resistor from a 2006 liberty. I removed the glove box door first.

I also have an 2006 Liberty but my question is "How do I remove the glove box door?" I've seen where they say to slide it to the right and it should come off but that doesn't work in the 06. How did you do it?

 

[Rats Pom]

Purchased a Jeep Cherokee 2.8 CRD with 60k on the clock about 1 1/2 months ago however the blower motor only worked in speed setting 4 so I started to trawl the 'net for a solution and found this wonderful site full of useful info. I found a post on here in the how to section describing the procedure to the replace the resistor. Today I fixed it ....it took about 10 mins to complete the job and I'm chuffed to knuts.

Many thanks to "lavalva" for the info on how to do it. The part here in the UK cost £20, would no doubt have cost alot more at the stealership!

Thanks


Alan (Mac)

 

[BluPhant]

Mine just went *AGAIN*. Called the parts department @ 4:55pm on a friday before a long weekend road trip... they had the part in stock and were happy to huck it in the back of a pickup behind the dealership for me if I wanted to pay by CC. Did that, didnt ask about pricing.... $45 w/ tax. Sheesh.

It is possible to remove the bottom bolt w/ small ratchet, was no big deal.

-Blu

 

[kb0nly]

Mine just went *AGAIN*. Called the parts department @ 4:55pm on a friday before a long weekend road trip... they had the part in stock and were happy to huck it in the back of a pickup behind the dealership for me if I wanted to pay by CC. Did that, didnt ask about pricing.... $45 w/ tax. Sheesh.

It is possible to remove the bottom bolt w/ small ratchet, was no big deal.

-Blu

Ouch, they are like $20 or less online or at Advance Auto Parts.

 

[Drewbo]

What an awesome guide! Thanks guys

Same thing happened to mine. The local stealership (I live in Australia) wanted $75 for the part and another $210 for installation!

I got the part on eBay for $20 and did it myself in about half an hour - thanks to you wonderful people

Must agree that it's much easier to get the wiring harness off after you unscrew the old part from the dash.

That red locking tab is a real *****!