jeep liberty crd

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Bobdog281

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I am looking for some help with my 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD .
MY engine will not rev over 3000 rpm and seems to have a lack of power . I have changed the fuel filter and added an inline supply pump. looking for any information you might have.
 

KJowner

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Any error codes?
Clean the MAP sensor with spray brake & clutch cleaner to start with.
 

Bobdog281

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Any error codes?
Clean the MAP sensor with spray brake & clutch cleaner to start with.
No error codes at all . I cleaned the map sensor . it will rev once or twice then back to choking 3000 rpm and no power. If i start it over , I get one or two good throttle cycles then back to dogging it.
 

burntkat

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Confirm fuel flow is my first trick in the troubleshooting tree...

Why did you feel the need to ADD an inline pump? Are you sure it's getting enough volume to the engine?
Did this problem occur before the pump was added, or start after?

Whatever the last thing you did to the engine before this happened was... Undo it, and test. Post results.
 
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Bobdog281

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Confirm fuel flow is my first trick in the troubleshooting tree...

Why did you feel the need to ADD an online pump? Are you sure it's getting enough volume to the engine?
Did this problem occur before the pump was added, or start after?

Whatever the last thing you did to the engine before this happened was... Undo it, and test. Post results.
I add the inline pump after having a bout with some bad fuel. there was a good bit of water in the fuel and it after changing the filter , I drained the tank twice . the fuel i had was cloudy and when i let it sit , in the warm garage the fuel separated into three layers fuel , a cloudy tan waxy layer and water. my thinking in adding the pump was because the fuel was getting thicker in the colder weather making it harder to suck into the injection pump. I have fresh fuel in the tank now with the winter additives in it . I will bypass the new pump and change the filter again and get back to you. thank you for your help.
 

burntkat

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I add the inline pump after having a bout with some bad fuel. there was a good bit of water in the fuel and it after changing the filter , I drained the tank twice . the fuel i had was cloudy and when i let it sit , in the warm garage the fuel separated into three layers fuel , a cloudy tan waxy layer and water. my thinking in adding the pump was because the fuel was getting thicker in the colder weather making it harder to suck into the injection pump. I have fresh fuel in the tank now with the winter additives in it . I will bypass the new pump and change the filter again and get back to you. thank you for your help.
Water in the fuel is a SEVERE problem in a diesel.

You need to not just clean the tank (and the entire fuel system), but install a fuel-water separator system. This will probably be a bit problematic in a unibody rig (vertical space for a fuel/water filtration stack being hard to find.

I understand why you added the pump, but I think you just compounded the problem. You're forcing whatever water remains in the system into the motor. This is a problem for two reasons...


1- the Injection Pump (not a diesel tech but I can hum the tune, so I'm assuming there is one) has VERY precise tolerances... And is rust-prone. This will ruin the IP.

2-assuming you dodge 1, above.... Water does not compress. You shoot water into the cylinder, you may well discover you're spontaneously installing a window in the cylinder (ie, blow out the cylinder wall)
 

burntkat

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the fuel i had was cloudy and when i let it sit , in the warm garage the fuel separated into three layers fuel , a cloudy tan waxy layer and water
Thought -
Have you been using Biodiesel, or trying WO (waste oil, especially vegetable oil) as a fuel?
 

KJowner

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The common rail pump is much more fussy than a traditional diesel injection pump, it runs around 10,000psi at full chat.
However the fact the engine starts and runs OK initially suggests that the mechanics of the injection system are OK but the ECU is seeing something that makes it reduce power.
A new MAP would be where I'd start, without that the ECU can't see boost pressure to add fuel.
 

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