New to Jeeps

[RockinRam96]

No after years of ripping people off, parts not fitting, bad customer service
I've only heard of a very few people that were pleased with them over the past twenty years or so
If they were the only place to deal with for suspensions, I'd drive a Toyota or completely stock KJ
ALLJs far one example are great people, work on Jeeps daily, own the LOSTJEEPs website etc

For example guy we were doing a lift for wanted to replace the UCAs
JBAs are the best by far and told him to get them
But to save some coin he went with RRO, got them and when it came time to install, they would not fit back in the pockets where they mount. Welded wrong, called and was told to put them in a vice and just bend them ! LOL
I called Marlin at JBA and he overnighted a set to my place. When the guy tried to return them to RRO he was told he was an idiot and did not know how to install them. At that time I had installed over 30 sets of JBAs with no issues and of course knew how to install UCAs . There are other stories, like my buddy has been waiting since 2005 for a refund on a bracket he ordered and would not fit as it should . Part was returned but no refund

Well that’s not very reassuring. Sure didn’t seem like an issue when I called.

but when I asked about lead times, I was told there was no way to tell. Which I thought was a little odd, but who knows these days.

 

[Michael Wolfe]

Hi,
My only issue with a sticky throttle was the floor mat handing up on it. Get a WeatherTech set. they are molded and never had that problem since. The throttle is an electronic sender right there at the pedal, so shouldn't be that hard to diagnose. I bought my EGR delete on Ebay... er I mean it fell off a few months ago. Wierd....
You'll need to download a new tune to make the ECU happy

LOST JEEPS • View topic - DIY ECU Flash

You'll need a flash cable and software (also available on Ebay), download the appropriate tune ( and keep the old one!) Important to figure out which model ECU you have (caused a minor panic once).

Keep in mind the CRD can easily overpower the stock torque converter lockup clutch. They actually detuned the engine to help this, so if you return it to the original values, when it locks up and you give it to much throttle it'll feel like you're running on washboard road. There is an aftermarket torque converter available.

The CRD is fun. Not sure where you are along the border, but I'm in Erie, PA

 

[CRD-Joe]

After quite some time talking about one and looking but not really finding anything that I liked, I finally found the perfect Jeep Liberty.

I stumbled across this 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD surfing on Craigslist one day. It was about 2 hours from my house so I emailed the owner. He said that the drives side front ball joint was broken and it would need to be trailered. No big deal.

I get there and in conversation he mentioned he bought this Jeep to transport hospice nurses from town to his house for his wife, who was suffering from Lime disease. He lived on a one lane dirt road in the hills of PA just across the NY border. He had bought this Jeep about 2 years ago for this reason from a friend of his who worked at the Jeep dealership in town.

At first look the Jeep stated well and checked off all the initial inspection boxes. So we got to work addressing the ball joint to get it on the trailer. I ended up popping out the stud and drilling a hole in the cup. I then put a bolt through the spindle and A arm. Worked out perfectly to get it on the trailer.

Got it home and stated looking things over. It is in very good shape. Very clean all around. It needs some TLC and clean up but will suit my needs for a hunting truck and overland vehicle just fine.

Only problem I have found is the throttle pedal doesn’t return to an idle. The engine will of the pedal is pulled back but it won’t return on its own. New spring? New pedal?

Any ways, plans are to put wheels and tires on it this fall and then a 2.5” lift kit next spring. Any recommendations? I see there is a lot of info here but don’t want to creat a post asking the stupid Newbie questions.

Would also like an EGR delete kit or tune. I called Green Diesel Performance but they no longer support the Libertys. If anyone knows of a tuner to delete the EGR, that would be appreciated.

You must be registered for see images attach

I believe I have a spare pedal if you need one. Also you really need to do that timing belt, there is no wiggle room on time or mileage.

Thanks man. It has 189,000 miles in it now. I’ll look into changing the timing belt soon. Maybe the glow plugs too just to be safe.

A tune would be great. Even if it is to eliminate the EGR and such. Do they have a DPF or anything like that. I’ve read about a catalytic converter, but do they have sensors and such going to them, is there a turbo back exhaust to be had?

another pic that didn’t seem to load before.

You must be registered for see images attach

I get that belt done asap. It's actually not bad to do after you line up the 3 pins. I believe I seen that one on clist as well. I'm in NY and always look for the crds. I parted 1 out about a year ago and I may still have that pedal if you need one. If you want to bypass the EGR quick an fast just unplug the MAF sensor on the air box. All it does is control the EGR. I unplug mine then reconnect for inspection. They are cool little machines, but they have there gremlins for sure. I seriously wouldn't drive it much though until you get that belt looked at and replaced. You can dm for info and what parts I still have.

 

[TURBO-DIESEL-FREAK]

RockinRam96:​

I can not advise regarding suspension systems and lift kits, but I am regarded as an expert on the topic of engine architecture, engine thermodynamic issues, cooling systems and how to make your engine last as long as possible. If you PM me, I can give you my e-mail address and contact number so I can advise on what upgrades to perform on your CRD engine.

I am also the only manufacturer in the world of an extreme quality upgrade thermostat for the CRD engine. It is a must-have for maximum power delivery, fuel efficiency and long-term reliability of the engine.

 

[RockinRam96]

I believe I have a spare pedal if you need one. Also you really need to do that timing belt, there is no wiggle room on time or mileage.

I get that belt done asap. It's actually not bad to do after you line up the 3 pins. I believe I seen that one on clist as well. I'm in NY and always look for the crds. I parted 1 out about a year ago and I may still have that pedal if you need one. If you want to bypass the EGR quick an fast just unplug the MAF sensor on the air box. All it does is control the EGR. I unplug mine then reconnect for inspection. They are cool little machines, but they have there gremlins for sure. I seriously wouldn't drive it much though until you get that belt looked at and replaced. You can dm for info and what parts I still have.

I may need to get that spare pedal from you. This one seems to get better as it is used. The Jeep had been sitting for about a month and a half under pine trees. It was covered in dust, dirt and pine needles. The inteior smelled musty and had a bit of mold starting. I may just need to **** up the pivot point to get it working properly. It is not getting caught on the floor mat (had that happen before).

I talked to the PO and he did say the timing belt had been changed around the 100,000 mile mark. I do plan on buying a kit to change this soon.

 

[CRD-Joe]

If you have a list of parts you may need let me know. I even have a transmission from it as well. I sold a lot from it, an yet still have a lot around. It was an 05' with 89k on it. Was tboned pretty hard. I needed the motor, an parted the rest. Was a shame cause it was super clean with no rust.
The worse part doing that belt is getting the fan shroud out. Lol. However do it all in there. New idlers, pump, tstat, tensioner, and I opted for the hd belt. That belt is a pia to put on as it's more Ridgid, but definitely a better quality. I would also order new idlers for the serpentine setup as well, along check that tensioner as well an replace if needed. At those miles I would do the tensioner for the serpentine as well. Remember all idlers are reverse thread on this Jeep. And I found them cheapest on rock auto. Shoot me an email if you like [email protected].

 

[Alan Michigan]

I had a 2005 CRD for 15 years and loved it. I had to trade up to a 2019 Cherokee Trailhawk because The Liberty had rusted beyond saving. I did an EGR delete on my Liberty with a GD tune and it solved a ton of problems, however, I would recommend NOT doing one on your Liberty. If you just re-flash the engine to bypass the EGR you will save yourself a lot of work and the EGR will still be there in case you need to go back to original. A couple of reliable parts sources I used were IDparts and Sasquatch parts. IDparts are more for general maintenance using high quality OEM or better parts and Sasquatch parts is more for specialty upgrades. Keep a clean air filter in the jeep and change your oil with synthetic religiously. At 180,000 miles its entire suspension is likely going to need some attention like being completely replaced. There is a great YouTube video series by COrobotchicken that will give you a very detailed tutorial on how to replace your timing belt. I did it myself. I have some expensive sensors and a Bllstien front shock if you would like them, no charge. just let me know. I'll be watching the forum. Good luck, I know you will love your Liberty.

 

[CRD-Joe]

I had a 2005 CRD for 15 years and loved it. I had to trade up to a 2019 Cherokee Trailhawk because The Liberty had rusted beyond saving. I did an EGR delete on my Liberty with a GD tune and it solved a ton of problems, however, I would recommend NOT doing one on your Liberty. If you just re-flash the engine to bypass the EGR you will save yourself a lot of work and the EGR will still be there in case you need to go back to original. A couple of reliable parts sources I used were IDparts and Sasquatch parts. IDparts are more for general maintenance using high quality OEM or better parts and Sasquatch parts is more for specialty upgrades. Keep a clean air filter in the jeep and change your oil with synthetic religiously. At 180,000 miles its entire suspension is likely going to need some attention like being completely replaced. There is a great YouTube video series by COrobotchicken that will give you a very detailed tutorial on how to replace your timing belt. I did it myself. I have some expensive sensors and a Bllstien front shock if you would like them, no charge. just let me know. I'll be watching the forum. Good luck, I know you will love your Liberty.

O that's great. I'm actually looking to order a new Cherokee trailhawk elite or the grand Cherokee trailhawk, with my 3rd option getting the grand Cherokee overland with the diesel. Kind of funny we both have/had a similar liberty an going to similar new Jeep.
I'm sending him a pedal, and I'm sure he'll want those parts from you as well. Nice seeing ppl helping out.
I'm looking for a new engine wire harness for my 05 crd. I have a nasty gremlin that sets my 5v into a frenzy on turns. All my 5v gauges go dead or activate warnings.

 

[Johnny O]

Late to the game, but welcome. As fellow new abuser of Libertys, I hope you enjoy wrenching on these little pariahs as much as I have come to.

 

[RockinRam96]

Started diving deeper into mine last night. Found out my metric socket set wasn’t enough for this truck…. Guess I’m buying a new socket set set with this Jeep! Ha ha

 

[RockinRam96]

Well I got most of the front end tore apart yesterday in preparation for the lift, with the exception of the driver side A-arm. Of course the tab the bold head of the front bolt rotted off and it just spins and as everyone know the rear bolt is almost impossible to get to. I have a 3’ and an 18” 1/2” drive extension, a swivel and a deep well socket and I still can’t get to it. Plus the nut is all kind of rusted so I am not sure a socket will hold. Still contemplating this. Thinking both bolt will get cut off some how and new bolts installed.

 

[RockinRam96]

OME front springs 790, rear 948 with at least OME front shocks ( they just work way better in the long run )
rear you can use either OME 132 Ls or Bilstein in which there are a couple of numbers for extended ones

Tom, do you have any alignment specs on these after a lift is installed?

 

[Alan Michigan]

O that's great. I'm actually looking to order a new Cherokee trailhawk elite or the grand Cherokee trailhawk, with my 3rd option getting the grand Cherokee overland with the diesel. Kind of funny we both have/had a similar liberty an going to similar new Jeep.
I'm sending him a pedal, and I'm sure he'll want those parts from you as well. Nice seeing ppl helping out.
I'm looking for a new engine wire harness for my 05 crd. I have a nasty gremlin that sets my 5v into a frenzy on turns. All my 5v gauges go dead or activate warnings.

Yeh, I miss the Liberty but it was eating me up with repairs and with the extreme rust it would never be new or safe again. All I'm giving up with the Cherokee Trailhawk really is some fuel mileage. It's just as good or better off road and can tow just as much. But that diesel was amazing once you got used to it.

 

[CTJEEP]

I had a 2005 CRD for 15 years and loved it. I had to trade up to a 2019 Cherokee Trailhawk because The Liberty had rusted beyond saving. I did an EGR delete on my Liberty with a GD tune and it solved a ton of problems, however, I would recommend NOT doing one on your Liberty. If you just re-flash the engine to bypass the EGR you will save yourself a lot of work and the EGR will still be there in case you need to go back to original. A couple of reliable parts sources I used were IDparts and Sasquatch parts. IDparts are more for general maintenance using high quality OEM or better parts and Sasquatch parts is more for specialty upgrades. Keep a clean air filter in the jeep and change your oil with synthetic religiously. At 180,000 miles its entire suspension is likely going to need some attention like being completely replaced. There is a great YouTube video series by COrobotchicken that will give you a very detailed tutorial on how to replace your timing belt. I did it myself. I have some expensive sensors and a Bllstien front shock if you would like them, no charge. just let me know. I'll be watching the forum. Good luck, I know you will love your Liberty.

Alan:

Would be interested in the parts for my 2005 CRD..

What do you have?

Carl

 

[CRD-Joe]

I agree! My rockers are shot, and the 3rd brake light rotted out. Even still I'm a sucker for these Italian diesels in these liberty's. The EGR is the worse, with a timing belt a 2nd weakness. Due to new inspections coming to the states, we can't modify our programs that aren't carb compliant. Why I suggested to just unplug the MAF. It's only purpose it's to run the EGR. Yes you get a light. However you get a lot more power, throttle response, and mpg.
I'm hoping to go this weekend to look at more jeeps. May even go towards the summit grand Cherokee with a diesel. There's just no time frame on new orders though.

Yeh, I miss the Liberty but it was eating me up with repairs and with the extreme rust it would never be new or safe again. All I'm giving up with the Cherokee Trailhawk really is some fuel mileage. It's just as good or better off road and can tow just as much. But that diesel was amazing once you got used to it.

 

[Michael Wolfe]

Yeh, I miss the Liberty but it was eating me up with repairs and with the extreme rust it would never be new or safe again. All I'm giving up with the Cherokee Trailhawk really is some fuel mileage. It's just as good or better off road and can tow just as much. But that diesel was amazing once you got used to it.

A Trailhawk tows as much as a CRD? I find that difficult to believe.

 

[tommudd]

Tom, do you have any alignment specs on these after a lift is installed?

Just saw this , still need them ??

 

[RockinRam96]

Just saw this , still need them ??

Yes, I do. Thanks.

 

[tommudd]

Yes, I do. Thanks.

Camber and toe set to OE specs
Caster anywhere from 2 degrees to 3.5 degrees and no more than 0.5 degrees cross caster

 

[RockinRam96]

Still waiting on my RRO lift. I did get the upper A arms about a month ago. But waiting in everything else. They’ve been telling me for the last 6 weeks, “it’ll be another two weeks.” When I talked to the at the beginning of this week (12/6), they said the last parts should be in and ready to ship next week. So with any luck I’ll have a nice Christmas present… But I’m not holding my breath.

I expected 4-6 weeks before it got to me, but it will be 11 weeks by the time it gets to me. Not sure if piecing a kit together would have come in quicker or not… Very disappointing and frustrating.