OME/Bilstein

[tommudd]

Well, the worst news I probably could've gotten
The bottom iso and piece of metal or whatever is on the coil over is welded so they said they can't take them apart
I have to order new bottom pieces in order to have them put together

??? Its welded ? Do they really know what they are doing? I can possibly see that they think they need a new lower iso although we have never had to replace any here when doing a lift.
I bet they don't have a clue, I'd pick them up and go elsewhere
something is fishy in Denmark
I mean you remove the top nut top plate, iso , shock comes off frops out of the spring including the lower iso , so even IF the lower mount was still on the shock it doesn't matter you have everything you need

 

[jeeplib05]

??? Its welded ? Do they really know what they are doing? I can possibly see that they think they need a new lower iso although we have never had to replace any here when doing a lift.
I bet they don't have a clue, I'd pick them up and go elsewhere
something is fishy in Denmark
I mean you remove the top nut top plate, iso , shock comes off frops out of the spring including the lower iso , so even IF the lower mount was still on the shock it doesn't matter you have everything you need

I got it all figured out
Now I can't get the clevis back on with the lifted coil overs in
The lower fork is hitting the LCA and won't go any further
I can't get the LCA lower to line up the lower fork

 

[tommudd]

I got it all figured out
Now I can't get the clevis back on with the lifted coil overs in
The lower fork is hitting the LCA and won't go any further
I can't get the LCA lower to line up the lower fork

Easy start the nuts on the top in the engine bay just loose, have the clevis up on the bottom of the shock
Now with one ( or two ) ratchet straps pull the legs of the Clevis in until they line up
Its works , drivers side is harder but will pull in

 

[jeeplib05]

Easy start the nuts on the top in the engine bay just loose, have the clevis up on the bottom of the shock
Now with one ( or two ) ratchet straps pull the legs of the Clevis in until they line up
Its works , drivers side is harder but will pull in

That's what I've been trying to do
But the lower fork is about an inch too low from lining up with the LCA hole
I've pried the LCA down and the ratchet is as tight as it'll go

 

[tommudd]

That's what I've been trying to do
But the lower fork is about an inch too low from lining up with the LCA hole
I've pried the LCA down and the ratchet is as tight as it'll go

Don't have something right since you're not really doing that big of a lift.
Do you have the sway bar disconnected ?
No need to pry the LCA down
IF you have everything unbolted like sway bar, tie rod end, brake caliper off etc then it will pull right up in with a little effort

Good luck have to go protect some goodies for the next 12 hours
I'll be back in the AM or someone here will surely help ya out

 

[jeeplib05]

Don't have something right since you're not really doing that big of a lift.
Do you have the sway bar disconnected ?
No need to pry the LCA down
IF you have everything unbolted like sway bar, tie rod end, brake caliper off etc then it will pull right up in with a little effort

What I read it said you didn't need to take off the tie rod
Also, the UCA bolt is spinning when I try to tighten the nut

 

[TwoBobsKJ]

Removing the sway bar and tie rod makes the LCA drop far enough down that you can get the clevis bolt in.

To tighten the UCA press the ball joint stud into the knuckle then take a breaker bar or shovel handle and place between the spring coils - then press down ******* the UCA while screwing the nut onto the stud. The stud has either a 9mm or 5/16" head on it so you can grab it with a deep well socket while using a box end wrench to tighten the nut.

Bob

 

[jeeplib05]

There's been just so many things messed up today
The lift install isn't as difficult as I thought but having to wait 3 1/2-4 hrs just for the shop to tell me they can't do it because the spring seat is welded to the stock shock (when all they had to do was use the new one that came with the Bilstein's)
And just driving back and forth form there wasted 5-6hours out of the day by itself
I'll pick up where I left off tomorrow and keep posted with progress and questions I'm sure I'll have !
Thanks everyone for helping me so far

 

[jeeplib05]

Removing the sway bar and tie rod makes the LCA drop far enough down that you can get the clevis bolt in.

To tighten the UCA press the ball joint stud into the knuckle then take a breaker bar or shovel handle and place between the spring coils - then press down ******* the UCA while screwing the nut onto the stud. The stud has either a 9mm or 5/16" head on it so you can grab it with a deep well socket while using a box end wrench to tighten the nut.

Bob

I appreciate all of the info you're giving
The only issue with that is when I put the nut on the stud with only a couple hand-tight turns and then a couple with a socket, it starts to spin the stud and the 9mm head that you're saying to hold with a socket isn't showing through the nut
I can't get the nut tightened far enough up the stud to be able to grab the stud's head is what I'm trying to say
FRUSTRATING ! :favorites68:

 

[Jbergun]

I tried twi different places vefore i found someone to assemble my front struts but i wasnt trying to get it done in a day. Disassembled the front on a sunday took an hour and a half then got it all put together and did the rears in 2-1/2 hours. With help i couldnt do it alone woukd have been a headache with some added cussing.

 

[Jbergun]

I appreciate all of the info you're giving
The only issue with that is when I put the nut on the stud with only a couple hand-tight turns and then a couple with a socket, it starts to spin the stud and the 9mm head that you're saying to hold with a socket isn't showing through the nut
I can't get the nut tightened far enough up the stud to be able to grab the stud's head is what I'm trying to say
FRUSTRATING ! :favorites68:

Grab it with vise grips above the nut till they dont fit in there then there should be enough to get a socket on the bottom. Be careful not to mar the threads.

 

[tommudd]

I appreciate all of the info you're giving
The only issue with that is when I put the nut on the stud with only a couple hand-tight turns and then a couple with a socket, it starts to spin the stud and the 9mm head that you're saying to hold with a socket isn't showing through the nut
I can't get the nut tightened far enough up the stud to be able to grab the stud's head is what I'm trying to say
FRUSTRATING ! :favorites68:

If you can get the nut back off clean the threads some then spray some good penetrating oil on there no not WD40 ! LOL
Now with a bar stuck over top of the UCA and through the spring pry down hard , the nut will go on

 

[tommudd]

Grab it with vise grips above the nut till they dont fit in there then there should be enough to get a socket on the bottom. Be careful not to mar the threads.

You want him to buy JBA arms , right ?? :emotions34::happy175:

 

[jeeplib05]

Back at it again today
Hopefully it goes smooth..
I'm hoping that when I remove the tie rod the LCA will drop enough for the fork to align
My luck.. It'll be working on it tomorrow also

 

[jeeplib05]

And of course
Now I can't even get the tie rod out
I got the lower sway bar bolt out but the tie rod won't budge
This is just never ending

 

[jeeplib05]

Got the lower clevis in
Sway bar is 2 inches from hole now
Help!

 

[tommudd]

Got the lower clevis in
Sway bar is 2 inches from hole now
Help!

You DO NOT hook the sway bar back up until full weight is on the ground , only then and it will go easily
I put the tires back on, bounce it a few times, THEN reinstall the sway bar bolts/ links and tighten

Remember me offering to help ?? :happy175:
Plus numerous writeups on here LOSTJEEPs etc all mention what all needs to come off/ loosen and then when to reinstall etc

 

[KJ604]

You DO NOT hook the sway bar back up until full weight is on the ground , only then and it will go easily
I put the tires back on, bounce it a few times, THEN reinstall the sway bar bolts/ links and tighten

Remember me offering to help ?? :happy175:
Plus numerous writeups on here LOSTJEEPs etc all mention what all needs to come off/ loosen and then when to reinstall etc

Holy $h!t I wish I had read this before I did my install. My DS sway bar went in really easily and it was still in the air. But the PS was very difficult to get in while it was in the air. I used a bar to pry it over to line up the bolt....

 

[tommudd]

Holy $h!t I wish I had read this before I did my install. My DS sway bar went in really easily and it was still in the air. But the PS was very difficult to get in while it was in the air. I used a bar to pry it over to line up the bolt....

At that point you have everything on a bind and putting extra pressure on bushings etc . reason to have full weight on the ground, the bolts will pop right in

 

[jeeplib05]

You DO NOT hook the sway bar back up until full weight is on the ground , only then and it will go easily
I put the tires back on, bounce it a few times, THEN reinstall the sway bar bolts/ links and tighten

Remember me offering to help ?? :happy175:
Plus numerous writeups on here LOSTJEEPs etc all mention what all needs to come off/ loosen and then when to reinstall etc

I finally got it back on with a little prying
The lift is done and I couldn't be happier (of the end result and to be done with installing it !)
I wanted to enjoy doing it but having to go out and buy a couple more tools to do the job and stuff not lining up right just frustrated me to no end
But, it's done and it definitely looks good ! Just need bigger tires down the road
Going to try and get an alignment today if not tomorrow
The front drivers side tire is bowed out at the bottom
But all the others look straight.. Is this normal? I know the alignment will fix it but I was just worried about driving it being like that