Transmission Solenoid Pack Confusion...

[randomuser107]

Hey guys I’m back for some more super helpful advice from you wonderful people, currently having some transmission problems and see that I’m getting some codes regarding solenoid replacement when running diagnostics - not a big deal, the valve body and solenoid pack seem very easy to get to, but there are some issues regarding ambiguity of the SKU# differences between two different compatible solenoid packs...

I’m trying to purchase an OEM Mopar Solenoid pack, but have noticed some vendors selling part #5143151AA and part #4800171AA - anyone know which freaking one I should be purchasing and why one might be better than the other?

Couldnt find much on google but maybe I’m looking in the wrong places... thanks to anyone who tries to help me!

 

[LibertyTC]

I could probably help you better knowing what the stored code numbers are.
It would also be helpful to know what year is your Jeep. If you could add the year to your signature line, it would be very helpful, Thanks.

 

[randomuser107]

I could probably help you better knowing what the stored code numbers are.
It would also be helpful to know what year is your Jeep. If you could add the year to your signature line, it would be very helpful, Thanks.

Thanks for the swift reply, I’ll definitely do so for future referencing -

Vehicle : Jeep Liberty (KK) 2011 4WD LTD

Error Codes Read: P0750 Shift Solenoid “A”



I believe the trans is 42RLE, correct? I also would like to note that the trans fluid was incredibly low at around 10mm while at running temp... filled it to around 40mm while at running temp now - problems persisting despite adding fluid. I had noticed some issues shifting while on a 2k mile road trip, around 50-80 mph if I was trying to pass people I’d wind up going straight from 2 to 5RPM unless I took my foot off the gas and pumped it while speeding up. After an oil change thought the car was running well and quiet, but after a 30 mile trip i turned the car back on and saw the check engine light turn on, thought I’d deal with it later but even approaching 50 brought me to around 5RPMs, so I went back home to be safe. Reset the computers by draining the power and check engine light went away - rpms were still climbing, couldn’t downshift appropriately, was stuck above 2 if my foot was on the gas, would only go below if I didn’t press gas at all.

I’m thinking I have to tackle the solenoid pack being replaced, as well as replacing the trans fluid pan/covering and sealing it - guessing that it has been leaking maybe, hopefully from there...

 

[LibertyTC]

With the trans fluid being so low, have you found a leak anywhere?
I'll try make a few calls re the solenoid in the AM and see where I get with that.
What scanner are you using?

 

[randomuser107]

With the trans fluid being so low, have you found a leak anywhere?
I'll try make a few calls re the solenoid in the AM and see where I get with that.
What scanner are you using?

I have not seen a leak, had a coolant leak that I fixed before the trip so was paying very close attention to leaking fluids etc the last 2 months... at least from what I can tell - also, used a sh**y autozone scanner they supplied me with, nothing too advanced

 

[LibertyTC]

A higher end scanner may be necessary to read the 42RLE trans temp fluid readings-to set level correctly.
Are you familiar with this chart?
https://images.oreillyauto.com/parts/img/documents/mtm/917-327instr.pdf

 

[randomuser107]

A higher end scanner may be necessary to read the 42RLE trans temp fluid readings-to set level correctly.
Are you familiar with this chart?
https://images.oreillyauto.com/parts/img/documents/mtm/917-327instr.pdf

Yes sir, that’s actually the chart I used to initially refill the trans fluid, since I didn’t have any advanced diagnostics tool I just ran the engine until it was warm (right at the middle on the temp gauge) and filled until it was ~40mm.

 

[LibertyTC]

I'll hopefully have an update on parts/solenoid pack -Thursday, dealers closed today as it's Remembrance Day.

 

[randomuser107]

I'll hopefully have an update on parts/solenoid pack -Thursday, dealers closed today as it's Remembrance Day.

No worries! Thanks so much for even taking the time out of your day to assist me!

I’m thinking I need trans filter, new trans fluid pan seal, solenoid pack and input/output sensors... wondering if I’m missing anything will have to research more, praying it’s not the shift solenoid because according to rockauto its twice the price of the solenoid pack

 

[LibertyTC]

Ok Here we go...Solenoid pack the correct one is #5143151AA -the other one may have been for a Jk?
There is a variable force solenoid sensor #5078911 AA
There also is a Pressure Transducer sensor # 5078336AC
As far as the pan gasket, they are still recommending Auto Trans RTV sealant.
You could also find an aftermarket pan gasket/seal.
I use is a 42RLE "lubeLocker" gasket with my PML 42RLE machined aluminum pan,
& it will work as long as your stamped pan is level, not warped at all.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[randomuser107]

Ok Here we go...Solenoid pack the correct one is #5143151AA -the other one may have been for a Jk?
There is a variable force solenoid sensor #5078911 AA
There also is a Pressure Transducer sensor # 5078336AC
As far as the pan gasket, they are still recommending Auto Trans RTV sealant.
You could also find an aftermarket pan gasket/seal.
I use is a 42RLE "lubeLocker" gasket with my PML 42RLE machined aluminum pan,
& it will work as long as your stamped pan is level, not warped at all.

You must be registered for see images attach

Thanks so much for all that useful info, in case anyone else needs it, I found a pretty thorough breakdown of the entire transmission rebuild, vids 15-17 specifically go over the valve body.

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLAvS7dDmwYw9F4zsV2e8jZbgaxjBVUZaI

 

[randomuser107]

Just a little update.. ordered a valve body solenoid pack from here - part sku is advertised as the #5...AA. I called them up and asked the guy and he confirmed that is the correct part number, I notice there’s a “sku alias” that refers to part #4...AA on the bottom of the page, the part just came in the mail today and it’s marked with the #4...AA SKU rather than #5...AA sku - is this just a case of synonymous sku’s with no differences, or did they switch the OEM part out on me and give me an after market solenoid pack?

Also... the guy told me he couldnt price match me or go any lower than what was offered whatsoever despite the website advertising a 100% guarantee on price matching... I was cool with it because I’m understanding as to how tight profit margins can be for a business - it’s whatever as long as I was given the correct OEM part at least.

Has anyone ever dealt with this website before by chance?

 

[randomuser107]

Ok Here we go...Solenoid pack the correct one is #5143151AA -the other one may have been for a Jk?
There is a variable force solenoid sensor #5078911 AA
There also is a Pressure Transducer sensor # 5078336AC
As far as the pan gasket, they are still recommending Auto Trans RTV sealant.
You could also find an aftermarket pan gasket/seal.
I use is a 42RLE "lubeLocker" gasket with my PML 42RLE machined aluminum pan,
& it will work as long as your stamped pan is level, not warped at all.

You must be registered for see images attach

I haven’t been able to find anything that’s absolutely clear on this so I figure I’ll ask you directly - do I need just one of the two (RTV sealant vs LubeLocker) or do I combine both? I ordered a pan that includes RTV sealant but I’ve also went ahead and purchased the lubelocker 42rle gasket you posted about - should I only be using one without the other?

 

[turblediesel]

Check your pan against a flat surface. If it's flat the gasket alone should be ok. Don't overtighten the bolts since that's what warps the pan.

I used black Permatex on mine with no gasket and haven't had a leak.

 

[LibertyTC]

The Lubelocker is the best gasket on it's own, and no RTV at all will be required* The lublocker can also be re-used a few times.
When using the lublocker, it is very important that the prep for clean mating surfaces on pan & at trans is very important.
Using a plastic scraper for RTV is good as well.
& AS mentioned above..use a flat surface to esure that the stamped pan is level/not warped.
* If any of the bolt holes on the pan are bent or elongated, add some RTV around the holes may be the best idea or even replace the pan.
Also my photo post 10 above, shows the torque info & sequence. Have & use the proper torque wrench.

If off roading, & not so equipped, a trans pan skid as well as a front skid plate should be added for protection.

I'm not a big fan of RTV/ the stamped steel pans, had leaks before & is why I went to a PML 42RLE
machined aluminum pan.
The PML has a drain plug, room for a temp sensor, is about 1.25 quarts over stock ATF+fluid.
Major advantage, the pan does not stay hot like a stamped steel OEM pan.
Slightly cooler operating temps can be expected.

 

[randomuser107]

Anyone have any suggestions on loosening the valve body sensor connections? They seem literally impossible to remove by hand, I had to remove the front axle drive shaft to even remotely get to the shifter / linkage and sensors on the drivers side, tried to use a flathead to gently hammer out the green sensor after removing the red tab and it cracked with zero movement. I thought maybe I could just remove the valve body after turning the shifter counter clockwise (while looking up from underneath) into the low gear, removed about 17 10mm bolts and it still isn’t budging - I’m lost .

 

[randomuser107]

So... thought it was just the manual shaft rusted as it’s a jeep that was primarily on the east coast. Turns out that trying to pry the valve body downward was the worst idea ever and I most definitely bent the blade (rooster comb?) attached to the parking sprag rod upward, i’m hoping that tomorrow I can try again in releasing the valve body.

I most definitely turned it in the opposite direction of park after unbolting the linker covering the manual shaft (which was f****** impossible.)

I thought that I could possibly release the valve body while also preemptively releasing the solenoid pack from the valve body in order to pull the sensor afterward rather than before, because where it’s located I see no other way aside from dropping the transmission in order to get it out.


Anyone have any suggestions or ideas as to why the parking sprag rod is not releasing despite us turning the manual shaft counter clockwise (while looking up at it from under the car) for a few clicks? Unfortunately someone else was under the car attempting to spin the shaft after I took a break, but they spun it 7 times from park rather than 5 from what I heard. The thing is, from where I saw, it doesn’t look like that internal shifter moved whatsoever. The car was in park when we removed the linker, if that helps at all.

 

[randomuser107]

I’ve got everything in order except the solenoid pack wiring harness. I even got the red locking tab out, but it simply refuses to come off. Does anyone have any tips regarding the machinations of this particular harness? I’m at a loss as to whether I’m supposed to squeeze it a certain way, or if it should just come right out or if theres a locking tab I have to flip/press or something...

 

[MattMcMatt]

I’m wondering if you made any progress with this. I think I’m in the same boat. I don’t want to drop the transmission, but I tore up my hand trying to get the harness off on the top. I replaced the speed sensors and hopefully that does it.

 

[randomuser107]

I’m wondering if you made any progress with this. I think I’m in the same boat. I don’t want to drop the transmission, but I tore up my hand trying to get the harness off on the top. I replaced the speed sensors and hopefully that does it.

I actually did wind up getting this done. I messed up the harness a little bit but finally got it done.

First, you have to get out this tiny little mother ****** red lock tab. This is the hardest ****** part, excuse my language but there's really no other way to put this lol. I used a very small flat piece of metal to pry it out. Laid flat under the jeep and stuck my hand in with my phone. Took a photo of the inside area with flash on to gain more insight on what it looks like in there. The locking tab is on the outside of the harness, you can kind of feel where it is if you stick your finger in there.

After you pry that out (I broke mine prying it out because **** that ****. it still locks fine, only problem for me was that I should have added that electric grease stuff later on before putting it back together) getting the harness down can be kind of a *****. I did it in an unorthodox way - I unscrewed the torx screws that were mounting the solenoid pack and then took out the rest of the valve body normally, allowing the solenoid pack to sort of hang for a minute until I was able to take some extra jack stands and a piece of wood to rest it on so the wires weren't stressed.

From here, I wound up playing with it and day after day just trying to pull it out - it never worked. Eventually, someone tipped me off that I should try and push them TOGETHER before pulling apart, and so I gave it about an hour of on and off trying, eventually it just came right off smooth as butter, I think theres a little tab above the place where the locking tab was, where you have to physically press (press the tab from the top toward the direction of the drivers side) which unhooks teeth holding them together, I would try both pushing the ports together and on the pull apart trying to press down the tab with your finger as much as you can while pulling apart, it should come right out after a lot of cursing and panting.

It WILL come out if you keep trying. Just don't break the harness with force if you're anything like me. I have zero clue regarding the electrical stuff with my jeep, to be honest I don't know ****, I only did this project because I couldn't actually afford to pay for it lmao. All in all it worked out pretty well. Feel free to ask me anything about the project...


If you have problems shifting when you're reassembling I ran into some issues and learned a little here and there that might help you a bit, so feel free to ask