What did you do to your jeep today?

[AJ9P]

Welp, mechanic called, Front wheel bearing is toast as well. This is starting to get real expensive

 

[Btownpreacher]

Hey all, I've been having a weird heat problem with my CRD. I live in Oklahoma and we've obviously been having some serious heat lately. Basically, anytime that I use the AC the engine temperature begins to rise, especially in city driving. Obviously the heat from the AC condenser is overheating the radiator, but I'm confident that it should be able to cool itself regardless of whether or not the AC is on. But there's more to it. On Monday I took a fishing trip for the Labor Day holiday; it was about 2 hours of driving to get there. On the way there from 5am-7am, it was cool out and we cruised at 75mph most of the way there. On the trip back from 2pm-4pm it was about 98 degrees out; I didn't even bother to use the AC knowing that it would start overheating. But after about 20 minutes of cruising at 75, the temperature gauge started to rise again; when it reached the 3/4 bar on the temp gauge, I turned the heater on high and within seconds it was at the normal halfway mark. I slowed to 70 and in another 30 minutes it was getting hot again. Again I flashed the heater and slowed to 65; this time it stayed just over the halfway mark and I made it the remaining hour or so of driving. This has happened during spirited driving before, but this was cruise control on a pretty flat I-40. FYI I'm a certified automotive professional; I already know the basics. I know the heater is basically just a miniature radiator so I know why it cooled the engine. But why wasn't the substantially larger radiator sufficient? My CRD even has the auxiliary electric fan in front of the condenser/behind the grille, and it is working. I drained the radiator and vacuum filled it with fresh coolant specifically for 2002-2012 FCA vehicles. I've heard that the stock thermostat opens at 176 degrees on the CRD and that it is generally too low for good engine performance; a 203 degree thermostat was recommended as a replacement. But that would only be running it hotter. Is this a potential thermostat or water pump issue, or is it just too much work for the engine? I'm now running 245/75/16s on stock rims at the stock 3.73 gear ratios. At 75 mph she's running at 2300 rpm with the TC locked, past halfway through the 4000rpm redline. Is that too high for continued driving? I'm not sure what's going on here, but it's also my daily driver so I can't readily dismantle it to rebuild the cooling system. Any help appreciated

 

[KJowner]

Hey all, I've been having a weird heat problem with my CRD. I live in Oklahoma and we've obviously been having some serious heat lately. Basically, anytime that I use the AC the engine temperature begins to rise, especially in city driving. Obviously the heat from the AC condenser is overheating the radiator, but I'm confident that it should be able to cool itself regardless of whether or not the AC is on. But there's more to it. On Monday I took a fishing trip for the Labor Day holiday; it was about 2 hours of driving to get there. On the way there from 5am-7am, it was cool out and we cruised at 75mph most of the way there. On the trip back from 2pm-4pm it was about 98 degrees out; I didn't even bother to use the AC knowing that it would start overheating. But after about 20 minutes of cruising at 75, the temperature gauge started to rise again; when it reached the 3/4 bar on the temp gauge, I turned the heater on high and within seconds it was at the normal halfway mark. I slowed to 70 and in another 30 minutes it was getting hot again. Again I flashed the heater and slowed to 65; this time it stayed just over the halfway mark and I made it the remaining hour or so of driving. This has happened during spirited driving before, but this was cruise control on a pretty flat I-40. FYI I'm a certified automotive professional; I already know the basics. I know the heater is basically just a miniature radiator so I know why it cooled the engine. But why wasn't the substantially larger radiator sufficient? My CRD even has the auxiliary electric fan in front of the condenser/behind the grille, and it is working. I drained the radiator and vacuum filled it with fresh coolant specifically for 2002-2012 FCA vehicles. I've heard that the stock thermostat opens at 176 degrees on the CRD and that it is generally too low for good engine performance; a 203 degree thermostat was recommended as a replacement. But that would only be running it hotter. Is this a potential thermostat or water pump issue, or is it just too much work for the engine? I'm now running 245/75/16s on stock rims at the stock 3.73 gear ratios. At 75 mph she's running at 2300 rpm with the TC locked, past halfway through the 4000rpm redline. Is that too high for continued driving? I'm not sure what's going on here, but it's also my daily driver so I can't readily dismantle it to rebuild the cooling system. Any help appreciated

I'd guess the viscous fan has failed, however it's strange that it's heating up at speed, the air should be blasting through at 70, radiator may be partly blocked too.
It shouldn't be over working the engine, the earlier euro Jeeps like mine don't have the extra electric fan, mine sits at normal temperature on a hot day with the AC on and a trailer on the back at 60.

 

[sota]

Welp, mechanic called, Front wheel bearing is toast as well. This is starting to get real expensive

Just
Empty
Every
Pocket

 

[sota]

Jeep's been doing fine since our WV trip where it smoked the compressor clutch coil.
Recently the minivan appears to have done the EXACT same thing... wtf.
Decided today I needed to get the neon inspected; it's only overdue by over a month!
The deciding factor was I nearly an afoul of a Checkpoint Charlie setup on my way to a client's.
Almost failed inspection as it looked like it was ready, so I plugged in my scan tool to check. The tool's been weird lately, and it wigged out badly this time, to the tune of apparently corrupting the DLC and caused a U110C NO FUEL LEVEL BUS MESSAGE, which of course immediately set the CEL. #$)(#)$
Cleared it with my Autel unit instead, decided to "send it" anyways, and by the time I got to inspection I only had the EVAP monitor as INC. I still got a sticker though (gotta love NJ.) Just to make life even MORE interesting, it decided to almost overheat badly. Found the radiator cap had worked loose and it was spewing coolant. Got 2 gallons of "spring water" from the Quik Check next door, loaded one of them up, and watched the temp gauge HARD the whole way home (stayed right around 200.)
Now we're about to get a monsoon it seems for about the next week.

As for the scan tool that was wiggy, I took it apart, resoldered the connector for the adapter cable, and now all seems well. I'm guessing a bad/broke solder joint.

 

[Btownpreacher]

I'd guess the viscous fan has failed, however it's strange that it's heating up at speed, the air should be blasting through at 70, radiator may be partly blocked too.
It shouldn't be over working the engine, the earlier euro Jeeps like mine don't have the extra electric fan, mine sits at normal temperature on a hot day with the AC on and a trailer on the back at 60.

Exactly what I thought at first, but as far as I can tell the fan is still spinning fine with the belt. I have three basic theories:
1. Something is wrong with the radiator/ cooling system. A plugged radiator, bad thermostat, failing water pump. The problem is that none of these can alone explain all of the symptoms.
2. On certain Jeeps, the gauges aren't directly proportional to what they measure. The battery level and oil pressure gages will stand straight up to indicate good levels, and if they fluctuate to far, the gage will subsequently flip either low or high to match the conditions. Maybe the temperature gauge is similar? It isn't actually representing a temperature, just how far away from normal operating temperature that the engine is.
3. It is running rich/lean or rather with insufficient boost pressure and thereby running the engine hot. I've long been suspicious of my turbo and fueling; them seem very moody or inconsistent. Maybe it just needs to be properly tuned. It really needs a lift pump, cp3, performance cooling system, turbo, and injectors but lets be real . Sasquatch parts is eternally out of stock for the lift pump and oil separator or else I'd have those by now

 

[KJowner]

Exactly what I thought at first, but as far as I can tell the fan is still spinning fine with the belt. I have three basic theories:
1. Something is wrong with the radiator/ cooling system. A plugged radiator, bad thermostat, failing water pump. The problem is that none of these can alone explain all of the symptoms.
2. On certain Jeeps, the gauges aren't directly proportional to what they measure. The battery level and oil pressure gages will stand straight up to indicate good levels, and if they fluctuate to far, the gage will subsequently flip either low or high to match the conditions. Maybe the temperature gauge is similar? It isn't actually representing a temperature, just how far away from normal operating temperature that the engine is.
3. It is running rich/lean or rather with insufficient boost pressure and thereby running the engine hot. I've long been suspicious of my turbo and fueling; them seem very moody or inconsistent. Maybe it just needs to be properly tuned. It really needs a lift pump, cp3, performance cooling system, turbo, and injectors but lets be real . Sasquatch parts is eternally out of stock for the lift pump and oil separator or else I'd have those by now

Spinning won't tell you much, even if it's shot it will still spin, it just won't lock up and move any air, the thermostat and pump are unlikely to be intermittently faulty, a new fan hub is quite cheap (in the US not here:-( ) and easy to change so I'd start there, also might be worth pulling the front grill and clearing leaves, dust and dead things out of the radiator.
The moody running is probably a dirty or dying MAP sensor. May also be a fuel supply issue, I keep looking an Facit cube pumps, much easier than an in tank setup, however the old VW TD in tank pump looks like it could be fitted into the existing fuel supply/ level unit for a really tidy job, my 2.5 needs something, it's a pig to start sometimes. Once my arm is back in action I'm going to have a look.

 

[DeVilliers]

Had to weld a socket to the sump plug to get the oil drained. What a fun morning.
The Jeep was last serviced when I bought it (not by me). It was in need of an oil change and other goodies. Get under the car and I find that the oil drain plug is nice and round. #$%%^^%##@! How??!!!

Got a new plug and all is well now.

 

[turblediesel]

Spinning won't tell you much, even if it's shot it will still spin, it just won't lock up and move any air, the thermostat and pump are unlikely to be intermittently faulty, a new fan hub is quite cheap (in the US not here:-( ) and easy to change so I'd start there, also might be worth pulling the front grill and clearing leaves, dust and dead things out of the radiator.
The moody running is probably a dirty or dying MAP sensor. May also be a fuel supply issue, I keep looking an Facit cube pumps, much easier than an in tank setup, however the old VW TD in tank pump looks like it could be fitted into the existing fuel supply/ level unit for a really tidy job, my 2.5 needs something, it's a pig to start sometimes. Once my arm is back in action I'm going to have a look.

I have a Facit inline pump number somewhere on the forum and in my notes. It's a fairly low pressure pump; under 10 psi if I'm remembering right. It's also a "fail-open" model which allows fuel flow if the pump fails.

UPDATE: Facet #40109 4-7psi.

 

[nohitter64]

I can't get to the link, but there was a guy here who cut off the cargo bay and made his Liberty into a pickup-like truck.

 

[profdlp]

Ah - a different one!

 

[Btownpreacher]

Spinning won't tell you much, even if it's shot it will still spin, it just won't lock up and move any air, the thermostat and pump are unlikely to be intermittently faulty, a new fan hub is quite cheap (in the US not here:-( ) and easy to change so I'd start there, also might be worth pulling the front grill and clearing leaves, dust and dead things out of the radiator.
The moody running is probably a dirty or dying MAP sensor. May also be a fuel supply issue, I keep looking an Facit cube pumps, much easier than an in tank setup, however the old VW TD in tank pump looks like it could be fitted into the existing fuel supply/ level unit for a really tidy job, my 2.5 needs something, it's a pig to start sometimes. Once my arm is back in action I'm going to have a look.

I spent three hours on lost jeeps the other night and found a few things. Cleaned the MAP yesterday at lunch, it was terribly caked in soot. Sounded a little better but my guess was that it would help with consistency. I updated my tire size so that my speedometer is accurate; while I was at it I scanned for codes and found that my cel wasn't just my failing glow plug, I had an under-boost code and a low flow egr code. I cleaned the map, cleared the codes and they haven't yet come back yet. Also found Marco for the engine tuning, and I'm soooo tempted with an inline pump and upgraded tc so that I can run his full torque tune. 213 hp and 390 lb. ft. + better economy

 

[Btownpreacher]

I have a Facit inline pump number somewhere on the forum and in my notes. It's a fairly low pressure pump; under 10 psi if I'm remembering right. It's also a "fail-open" model which allows fuel flow if the pump fails.

UPDATE: Facet #40109 4-7psi.

I have an Edelbrock inline pump from Autozone; its meant for diesel but I don't know if its fail open or not. I used it when I was diagnosing a no start as potentially fuel related, it's just been sitting around since then. I'd much rather use an intank pump and harness but it seems Sasquatch isn't stocking enough of them.

 

[Johnny O]

That’s a sweet Rubicon, Johnny. The Bert lineage shows in your color choices! Probably the JLU needs a little more red trim than just the tow hooks, but no rush. Looking forward to seeing where you take this one.

You are an honorary KJ owner now, so you have to stick around and tell stories. You also have a lot of KJ wisdom to share, from your own experiences with Bert. Let us know what your son in law finds out about cylinder six.

Done.

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[CherokeeLiberty]

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[sota]

prepped it for an adventure tomorrow.

 

[KJowner]

I spent three hours on lost jeeps the other night and found a few things. Cleaned the MAP yesterday at lunch, it was terribly caked in soot. Sounded a little better but my guess was that it would help with consistency. I updated my tire size so that my speedometer is accurate; while I was at it I scanned for codes and found that my cel wasn't just my failing glow plug, I had an under-boost code and a low flow egr code. I cleaned the map, cleared the codes and they haven't yet come back yet. Also found Marco for the engine tuning, and I'm soooo tempted with an inline pump and upgraded tc so that I can run his full torque tune. 213 hp and 390 lb. ft. + better economy

You torque converter won't live long if you wind the torque up, at least you can get upgraded ones, there's nothing available here sadly.

 

[sota]

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I bought another jeep.
not sure how i'm alive right now; monsooned on my way home, jeep was frequently losing traction.

 

[profdlp]

...not sure how i'm alive right now; monsooned on my way home, jeep was frequently losing traction.

When I read the first part I expected it to end with "because now my wife is going to kill me".

Glad you made it through the monsoon. I would rather drive in heavy snow than that...

 

[sota]

yea she wants to kill me too.

it was raining so hard that climbing the hills/mountains in CT and NY, I was losing drive traction and it was kicking me off the road in some cases. the TC system was working mightily during those events!