What did you do to your jeep today?

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sota

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all my shenanigans yesterday trying to get a defouler on the downstream bank 2 was for naught, and now I've done horked something with the bank 2 upstream. HOWEVER... look at both downstreams. neither are switching, and are in fact responding correctly. what the h e double hockey sticks. obviously i need to figure out what went wrong with 2/1, but could that possibly been causing these problems all along? 2/2 is wavy compared to 1/2, but that's expected as that bank is locked in open loop and running pre-programmed data, but based on those readings the cat is working fine! could 1/2 have just been enough out of wack to mess up converter efficiency, but not enough to trigger a sensor fail? i'm waiting for it to cool down now.
 

CheddarGau

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all my shenanigans yesterday trying to get a defouler on the downstream bank 2 was for naught, and now I've done horked something with the bank 2 upstream. HOWEVER... look at both downstreams. neither are switching, and are in fact responding correctly. what the h e double hockey sticks. obviously i need to figure out what went wrong with 2/1, but could that possibly been causing these problems all along? 2/2 is wavy compared to 1/2, but that's expected as that bank is locked in open loop and running pre-programmed data, but based on those readings the cat is working fine! could 1/2 have just been enough out of wack to mess up converter efficiency, but not enough to trigger a sensor fail? i'm waiting for it to cool down now.
b2s1 (red) should have more reaction to it. It should look similar to the blue. It's also almost at 2.5v, based on the screen shot it shouldn't exceed 1v.
 

sota

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exactly. my dickering around did something and "broke" b2s1, but now b2s2 is working properly. hence my supposition that it was b2s1 all along that was/is "bad", but not bad in such a way that it just flat out caused a MIL.
i'm done wrenching for a couple days, as i'm tired, sore, and need to do tile grout tomorrow.
hopefully I'll have the jeep in the air on saturday and I'll change out b2s1 and see what happens.
 

AJ9P

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So i finally found the source of my power drain, when i got the pcm replaced, the mechanic told me that there was a problem with the wiring and they had to run a new power wire. Little did i know that ment hooking up a wire directly to the battery. at least they put an inline fuse on it. now i need to figure out where that wire should go so the pcm turns off and dont have to keep opening the hood when i park for the night.
 

sota

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I love hack bastards like that.
Get the connector and pin number or wire color code, and i'll look it up in the FSM.
 

CheddarGau

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So i finally found the source of my power drain, when i got the pcm replaced, the mechanic told me that there was a problem with the wiring and they had to run a new power wire. Little did i know that ment hooking up a wire directly to the battery. at least they put an inline fuse on it. now i need to figure out where that wire should go so the pcm turns off and dont have to keep opening the hood when i park for the night.
**** at least put in a relay so you can cut the power with ignition off.
 

AJ9P

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**** at least put in a relay so you can cut the power with ignition off.
I am trying to trace the diagram so i can wire into the existing relay. I also forgot to add since they "fixed" my pcm i have 2.3v constantly on my interior lights. URG!
 

Jeremy-WI

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exactly. my dickering around did something and "broke" b2s1, but now b2s2 is working properly. hence my supposition that it was b2s1 all along that was/is "bad", but not bad in such a way that it just flat out caused a MIL.
i'm done wrenching for a couple days, as i'm tired, sore, and need to do tile grout tomorrow.
hopefully I'll have the jeep in the air on saturday and I'll change out b2s1 and see what happens.
I would replace both bank 2 sensors just in case your attempt to fix contaminated them and now are both giving false results. I know the upstream sensors are a pain to replace
 

sota

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I would replace both bank 2 sensors just in case your attempt to fix contaminated them and now are both giving false results. I know the upstream sensors are a pain to replace
ironically, after having now removed 3 of the 4, S2B1 is actually the 2nd easiest B1S2 being #1. yea the connector is way up there, but I can get my hand in there to unplug it, and the socket fits nicely to unscrew it.
now B2S2, that's a pain because it's RIGHT up against the trans.
 

KJowner

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Welded up my inner sill, 1 down 1 to go, also this morning I refitted the diesel filter after taking the whole thing to bits investigating where the air is getting into the fuel system, this evening it started up immediately so fingers crossed on that!
 

Jeremy-WI

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ironically, after having now removed 3 of the 4, S2B1 is actually the 2nd easiest B1S2 being #1. yea the connector is way up there, but I can get my hand in there to unplug it, and the socket fits nicely to unscrew it.
now B2S2, that's a pain because it's RIGHT up against the trans.
If you ever have to do B1S1, remove the sensor from exhaust and reach behind the rear of the engine near the firewall and pull it up through there
 

65Corvair

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New roof rack, who dis?

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I brought home a free-standing peg board to stick in my garage. Surprisingly, there was absolutely no wind noise while going 70mph…

I too love the uni-strut roof rack. Its very modular and you can easily move the cross bars to where they are needed.

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lfhoward

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I got the transmission cooler replaced last weekend. This weekend I am back at the shop getting the hood un-stuck! It hasn’t opened since they worked on it the first time.
 

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