gatortail
Full Access Member
drove through the orange grove today. went hawg hunting with my dawgs. not luck there but did find some other tasty critters..
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Had an electrician tell me years ago that the best way to find a problem is to divide the circuit in half. If you find power at the half way point, divide in half again (3/4) toward the load and so on.... Don't find power at the half way mark divide in half again (1/4) toward the source. Makes electrical trouble shooting very quick and easy.
Alan
What, like a slim-jim?
(My current lockout kit is a big rock from the side of the road.) :mfr_omg:
Nicely done. What weight is the roof allowed/able to take?
Finished, painted, and mounted my home built roof rails, roof basket, and jerry can mounts. Roof rails shown are Phase 1. Phase 2 is a second set of lateral rails that come from the front (near the windshield), curve back to intersect the rear rails about half way up (sort of an Xterra look) and then a cross-bar (for off-road light mounts) connecting the Phase 2 rails (parallel to the windshield).
Rear rails are set approx. 2.0"-3.0" higher than stock (overall roof-to-rail gap is 4.0"-4.5"), so I can get my hand and/or a wash brush under the basket. That drove me nuts all last summer when I was washing the KJ. They are also vertical (if not a little bit canted outward at the top). This gave me a little wider area in which to mount the basket. They are still wider in the rear than in the front, but that is unavoidable (unless you want some freaky looking roof rails).
Sorry if I am not painting the picture very well. But I got to thinking what a waste it was not to utilize the area above the sunroof as an area for a secondary roof basket (just in case). After all, it's not a convertible.
The rear roof basket is welded to the rear lateral roof rails (eliminating the need for cross-bars) and the basket I will use for the front will rest on the front lateral rails (here I will use clamps).