What did you do to your jeep today?
- Thread starter TheQ
- Start date
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nullptr
Full Access Member
Finally got the correct EVIC+PSI installed. First one I ordered, the temperature didn't work with 04+ vehicles. Yeah, I should have read the entire article. The new one works great, though, although it doesn't seem to have the actual correct tire pressures (all 5 are dead-on 34psi, the EVIC has them ranging from 24 to 36). I suspect it'll update itself after a little drive.
I then changed out the microswitch on the rear hatch. Wouldn't you know it, the old one started working as soon as the back cover came off? Guessing I jarred something loose. Either way, new one is in and seems to work.
Then I tried to change the oil. :blah:
I'm starting to suspect that the oil pan is boned. The drain plug seems to have a crazy-thick rubber washer on it, and I can't get the darned thing to move at all. Didn't feel comfortable putting an impact wrench on it, so I'm thinking I'll let the dealership try tomorrow morning. Thankfully they are open on Sundays! Since I just ran seafoam through it last weekend, I guess running cheap dealer oil and filter for a couple of hundred miles won't hurt it. Might even flush the system a bit more.
Just hoping I don't need a new pan. Jeep has been draining my wallet pretty fast since I bought it. I really should have had an independent mechanic look at it. Oh well, at least it doesn't seem like there is anything major wrong, just a bunch of 'wear' items that have gone bad, and now the stupid oil drain plug business.
Also won a stock NIB set of tow hooks off eBay. Looking forward to getting those on.
I then changed out the microswitch on the rear hatch. Wouldn't you know it, the old one started working as soon as the back cover came off? Guessing I jarred something loose. Either way, new one is in and seems to work.
Then I tried to change the oil. :blah:
I'm starting to suspect that the oil pan is boned. The drain plug seems to have a crazy-thick rubber washer on it, and I can't get the darned thing to move at all. Didn't feel comfortable putting an impact wrench on it, so I'm thinking I'll let the dealership try tomorrow morning. Thankfully they are open on Sundays! Since I just ran seafoam through it last weekend, I guess running cheap dealer oil and filter for a couple of hundred miles won't hurt it. Might even flush the system a bit more.
Just hoping I don't need a new pan. Jeep has been draining my wallet pretty fast since I bought it. I really should have had an independent mechanic look at it. Oh well, at least it doesn't seem like there is anything major wrong, just a bunch of 'wear' items that have gone bad, and now the stupid oil drain plug business.
Also won a stock NIB set of tow hooks off eBay. Looking forward to getting those on.
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profdlp
Fired
Maybe that is standard, but I've seen aftermarket plugs like that which was for use when the oil pan drain threads were getting sloppy. I'd ask them to check it good tomorrow.
I have an 05 Limited too, I have the TPMS and it had the EVIC from the factory, but mine doesn't display the pressures. I know that at one point in time there were two different systems (basic and premium TPMS) and my 05 brochure grouped the EVIC with the premium TPMS and mine has never displayed it. Just curious, did you have to program anything?
nullptr
Full Access Member
Yes, that's what mine had originally. While it would display, "Spare Tire Low" or whatever, it wouldn't actually show the pressures.
I replaced the stock one with P/N 56010438AD, whereas the one I removed was P/N 56010520AD. They were both made in 04, according to their stickers (03/04/04 and 09/27/04, respectively). Oddly enough, the plugs on the sunroof were different, so I had to swap the sunroof switch from one to the other. The one I'd tried previously was P/N 56042756AG, it had Instant MPG, but the temperature sensor readout was "--".
The new one seems to work just fine without any programming. We'll see if the pressures straighten themselves out after a bit, from what I've read it only sends pressure readings once you get above 20mph, but everything does seem to work at this point. I'll let you know tomorrow.
That's possible, I really don't know. I'm going to try and get it off again before I take it in, but I was really concerned with how much pressure I was having to apply. I don't want to break the pan, then I'd be really screwed!
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It's a pretty sturdy pan. I had to take a 24" breaker bar to mine right after I bought it. Whoever did the last service really torqued it on good. Just nice even pressure and it broke free. I wouldn't go with an impact. Still using the same plug even after that and 85k more miles.
Ah ok thanks. So it is an EVIC difference.
As for the drain plug, I don't remember the first DIY oil change on the KJ but on the WK I had to use a 1/2" drive ratchet and go ******** on the plug. Now I just use a 3/8" drive and lightly tighten it (just hold on to the head)
As for the drain plug, I don't remember the first DIY oil change on the KJ but on the WK I had to use a 1/2" drive ratchet and go ******** on the plug. Now I just use a 3/8" drive and lightly tighten it (just hold on to the head)
CzarKJ
Full Access Member
Played in the snow. Almost had to offer to give a gentlemen who had slid into the curb either a pull or a push but he was able to rock it out. Wish I had stuck around to see what his tires looked like though. And I only did one doughnut in a parking lot. I'm on a diet.
nullptr
Full Access Member
Ha! Got it off using the same method, soaked it in PB Blaster overnight.
Not putting this one back on, it's stock as far as I can tell, but the head is completely rounded off. :emotions34:
Also did the 'Fuel Tank Burp' fix, it works perfectly!
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Good job! I hate when things get stuck like that. Mine has a pretty thick looking "gasket" on it too. Not soft at all, sort of a hard plastic. Never leaks. I think next time I'll put the new one I have on. I'll save the old one for a spare.
I actually changed the oil today also. I just use a 1/2" box end now. Unlikely to over-torque with that. Treated her to some Mobil 1 High Mileage. 25 bucks for a 5 quart jug at WallyWorld. Usually she gets their SuperTech so we'll see if she gets spoiled. Crawled around checking and shaking things. Looked pretty good under there. Retorqued my ****** pan. That one back corner always drips a few drops overnight, always has. :shrug:
TwoBobsKJ
Full Access Member
Installed the driver side power leather seats I picked up yesterday. I followed the HOW-TO and everything went as planned. Have to make up a harness to run to the passenger side (got both pigtails so just a matter of soldering color-to-color) and then I'll have power seats on both sides.
Still unclear where to get power for the heat but I'll keep poking away till I figure it out.
Seats are a bit taller than the manual seats but definitely more comfortable. Really like being able to tilt the seat bottom up and down in the front and back. Makes it easier to get the fit I want.
Bob
Still unclear where to get power for the heat but I'll keep poking away till I figure it out.
Seats are a bit taller than the manual seats but definitely more comfortable. Really like being able to tilt the seat bottom up and down in the front and back. Makes it easier to get the fit I want.
Bob
nullptr
Full Access Member
Ok, update on this. While the EVIC is now displaying pressures, they appear to have nothing to do with reality. The displayed pressures do not.match the tires, and airing a tire up or down doesnt seem to change the.display.
Oh well, time to stop spending money on getting the PSIs working.
Birdman330
Full Access Member
Ordered a font window regulator repair kit, I think the pass side window in the front is about ready to to drop.
profdlp
Fired
Due to my recent troubles, I have learned a great deal about TPMS lately, far more than a guy who doesn't even have a TPMS in his Jeep thought he would ever know... :emotions34:
One thing I have come across is that it may take up to 15-20 minutes of driving time above 15mph for changes to be reflected in the readout. Are you giving it that long to update?
This is one of the things on my "Stuff I'm Currently Paranoid About" list. What makes you suspect that the hammer (and the window!) is about to fall? If it just has a herky-jerky motion on raising and lowering, try cleaning the windows really good and adding some silicone spray to the rubber in the doors. Make sure you pull the rubber back enough so the spray makes good contact to the rubber where it touches the windows. Mine were scaring the crap out of me and that smoothed things out immediately. Kudos to whoever it was here who made the suggestion.
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Birdman330
Full Access Member
This is one of the things on my "Stuff I'm Currently Paranoid About" list. What makes you suspect that the hammer (and the window!) is about to fall? If it just has a herky-jerky motion on raising and lowering, try cleaning the windows really good and adding some silicone spray to the rubber in the doors. Make sure you pull the rubber back enough so the spray makes good contact to the rubber where it touches the windows. Mine were scaring the crap out of me and that smoothed things out immediately. Kudos to whoever it was here who made the suggestion. [/QUOTE]
Since October but its getting way worse but I don't ever really put the windows down on the KJ, the front pass window won't go up all the way without being pushed back. Now there is a bad rattling coming from the door itself in the window area near the top but also behind the panel, at first it was easily gotten rid of with just a quick up and down of the window like less than half an inch distance. Now that its warming up again somewhat its next to impossible to get rid of the rattling and I think its getting worse each time the passenger door is opened and closed. It goes down fine but you have to push the window towards the back to make sure it goes up all the way, nearly fell one time which made me panic but caught it in time before it did. So rather than spend what I did for the other three windows I'm going to use the Steiger Kit when it goes in Feb 2 for its oil change and pre-trip inspection. I really REALLY don't need another stupid incident of being stuck at a repair shop for several hours nor to make a makeshift wedge to keep the window up. Nothing more annoying than trying to drive a stick in the middle of a very cold winter with one hand trying to hold up the window like what happened last Feb with the driver side window. Went through the Drive Thru, nothing indicating something was going to happen, rolling up the window then nasty popping/snapping noise and BAM! The window falls thankfully I caught it, so while trying to talk to my Buddy at the Dealership Just before I got hired, holding up a window and driving a stickshift I made it to the house and was able to use a makeshift wedge of a wood shim, with a green wash cloth to hold the window up so I could drive to the dealership and leave it with them for a couple of days to get it fixed. He's just glad I'm one who has patience since we're one extremely busy dealership so I don't fret if I don't get in the same day of my appointment. Still the same way now, if it don't get in same day it gets in the next day.
[/QUOTE]Since October but its getting way worse but I don't ever really put the windows down on the KJ, the front pass window won't go up all the way without being pushed back. Now there is a bad rattling coming from the door itself in the window area near the top but also behind the panel, at first it was easily gotten rid of with just a quick up and down of the window like less than half an inch distance. Now that its warming up again somewhat its next to impossible to get rid of the rattling and I think its getting worse each time the passenger door is opened and closed. It goes down fine but you have to push the window towards the back to make sure it goes up all the way, nearly fell one time which made me panic but caught it in time before it did. So rather than spend what I did for the other three windows I'm going to use the Steiger Kit when it goes in Feb 2 for its oil change and pre-trip inspection. I really REALLY don't need another stupid incident of being stuck at a repair shop for several hours nor to make a makeshift wedge to keep the window up. Nothing more annoying than trying to drive a stick in the middle of a very cold winter with one hand trying to hold up the window like what happened last Feb with the driver side window. Went through the Drive Thru, nothing indicating something was going to happen, rolling up the window then nasty popping/snapping noise and BAM! The window falls thankfully I caught it, so while trying to talk to my Buddy at the Dealership Just before I got hired, holding up a window and driving a stickshift I made it to the house and was able to use a makeshift wedge of a wood shim, with a green wash cloth to hold the window up so I could drive to the dealership and leave it with them for a couple of days to get it fixed. He's just glad I'm one who has patience since we're one extremely busy dealership so I don't fret if I don't get in the same day of my appointment. Still the same way now, if it don't get in same day it gets in the next day.
