uss2defiant
Full Access Member
youtube it to see the extent of the work.
What did you do to your jeep today?
- Thread starter TheQ
- Start date
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Damotee
Full Access Member
Thanks, yea I had a look. Seems very tedious but doable. Not sure how Im going to access the rear bolt on the drivers side (passenger side in USA). The other 3 seem pretty accessible.
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Get the JBA ones!
So your steering shaft is on that side, right? In the wheel well you'll see two 10mm bolts right next to each other. Unbolt those, then you'll be able to move the steering shaft a bit and that helps. Got a pic of your engine bay? Never seen how it is in a RHD KJ!
So your steering shaft is on that side, right? In the wheel well you'll see two 10mm bolts right next to each other. Unbolt those, then you'll be able to move the steering shaft a bit and that helps. Got a pic of your engine bay? Never seen how it is in a RHD KJ!
Damotee
Full Access Member
Thanks I was wondering how I'd get around that. I'll post a pic
UCAs are not that hard to do really even for a first timer
I've done quite a few of them and takes me 30-45 minutes
Alignment afterwards of course
OH thats on gassers, CRDs are a PITA at times
Lifted if you can afford them get the JBA ones, rebuildable and much better than stock type ones
Damotee
Full Access Member
Bought the JBA arms. Hopefully arrive by this weekend.
Aaronhasakjnow
New Member
Bought it.
Adam Roby
Full Access Member
Took the crossbars off... annoying hum when driving. They are light and only require 8 bolts to put back on so I'll install when needed and remove when not needed. Now I understand why they did not come from the factory with cross bars.
Wind testing.... We all know how aerodynamic our bricks are.
Wouldn't want to affect my fuel mileage.
Wind testing.... We all know how aerodynamic our bricks are.
Wouldn't want to affect my fuel mileage.
GeekFisher
Full Access Member
Took the crossbars off... annoying hum when driving. They are light and only require 8 bolts to put back on so I'll install when needed and remove when not needed. Now I understand why they did not come from the factory with cross bars.
Wind testing.... We all know how aerodynamic our bricks are.
Wouldn't want to affect my fuel mileage.
Mine are on all-year long... I took care of the humm problem with a new head unit to cover it !
Bring mine fishing again, took a bunch of 8" to 10" brookies...
GeekFisher
Full Access Member
Setup was substancially improved when I finally get over my stuborness and add some low-profile tracks ! Can post pics if wanted in a Things that float thread ! With my load bar and everything !
It surprises me that there are not much KJers that are kayak fishing. This is almost the perfect carrying vehicule to it !
Kayaks are not big enough for me, I like to have space to move around and haul in those large fish!:happy175:
Jo6pak
Full Access Member
Jacked up the rear end to try and find my "mystery noise" that everyone is telling me is the tires. NO, it's not the tires!! The noise is still there when driving on sand, dirt, and grass. Really sounds like a wheel bearing up front, but all checks seem to be OK.
CV axles seem fine, diff fluids fine, no brake issues that I can see, checked to see if backing plates are rubbing, Nope. Front driveshaft seems kosher, rear U joint is a little sloppy, but I don't think that would make a rotational "rubbing/humming" sound.
I'm about to hit "F-it" just put in a passenger side wheel bearing to see what happens...or drive the damn thing into the river:favorites68:
CV axles seem fine, diff fluids fine, no brake issues that I can see, checked to see if backing plates are rubbing, Nope. Front driveshaft seems kosher, rear U joint is a little sloppy, but I don't think that would make a rotational "rubbing/humming" sound.
I'm about to hit "F-it" just put in a passenger side wheel bearing to see what happens...or drive the damn thing into the river:favorites68:
GeekFisher
Full Access Member
They can suit large paddlers and haul some big ones, just look at Chad Hoover, but I know what you mean. Still surprising not more kayak anglers in the things that float section...
I might just create a poll bout it !
Changed the rear diff oil yesterday. Didn't like how the pumpkin was sitting with the 4 link, so cut the bars down today and pulled the pumpkin down. Hoping the clunking I'm hearing will be resolved with the new rear LCA's I ordered from Rock Auto - along with a ****** dipstick. I've been chasing that since my lift. Really sounds like it's where the UCA/Arm attaches under the seat when I rock it when off and at the back tire passenger side - but only backward. A LOT of play in it when in park, so who the heck knows.
Adam Roby
Full Access Member
I sold my kayak a few years back. Had a bad back, was difficult for me to lift. I've since had surgery, but still am not supposed to lift more than 30 lbs... no more all-you-can-eat buffets I guess.
Last time out, a buddy and I used his Jetta. We threw them up top, took off, it was a hot day, opened the windows and sunroof. The first stop sign we hit, about a gallon of water from inside the kayaks came gushing in through the sunroof, soaking us inside his car. LMAO all the way home... good times.
That sounds exactly like what I'm hearing with my Ranger and it is definitely the front wheel bearings in my case. I've done all the usual tests too but don't think they are bad enough to show the obvious signs. They do hum at speed and rub at slow speeds. I've got those PVHs and the seals have failed. Can't be too pissed though as it is 20 years old. At least the KJ hubs and bearing are cheaper than the Fords so worth a shot for you.
Just drove mine today, as usual... that is all.
profdlp
Fired
Would love to see a video of that one! :gr_grin:
