Aceofspades
Full Access Member
End links need to be super tight
What did you do to your jeep today?
- Thread starter TheQ
- Start date
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Anything with a bushing needs to be torqued with the vehicle weight on it. Such as control arms, sway bar end links, etc.
I would suggest checking the sway bar end links first as its quick and common for clunks.
Removing the rear sway bar will give you better flex and it's not noticeable in terms of handling on road. Don't remove the front one unless you put on limiting straps as you will destroy your axles pretty quickly.
Changed oil and PCV valve. I believe the PCV was the 13 year old original. I'd like to find the engineer who decided to put the the PCV valve there and have it rotate that way and kick him right in the nuts very hard... :favorites68:
ghostrider
Full Access Member
Agreed! I changed mine not long before I started the suspension work; what a pain in the but!
i havent had a front sway bar for a couple of months. i did realize after i posted that i need to tighten things with the weight of the jeep on them. one question i have is how much threads should show with the jba a arms installed correctly.
Threads on what, bushings/ ball joints , what?
And really should run front sway bar
Rear no front yes
on the ball joint. i took the front off when repairing a trans line leak. ill put it back on
Aceofspades
Full Access Member
Could be the JBA arms hitting the pockets if you didn’t cut them out.
No need to cut the pockets, they will self clearance the little bit they need to. Cutting them will allow the front to droop too much at times. What we do here is just tap the metal somewhat to start it, thats all that is needed
Aceofspades
Full Access Member
Yeah. That’s what mine did. I’m completely forgot or didn’t know about the cutting preocess until after they made their own room. Just a thought though.
pretty sure part of it is cause i didnt think and the only bolts i tightened under full weight was the a arms
Aceofspades
Full Access Member
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So far only tire in stock is the 4S. No such tire size in the XLT :/
Got the clunking out of the front. Once I tightened the nut on the ball joint we were good. Also checked where the clevis connects to the lower control arm. Still getting noise in the rear. Tried tightening lower shock mount. But I'm hoping the front settles some. I'm at 23.25". Think that might be to much
Fronts too high at 23.25 if you are not running the JBA adjustable coilover lift, even then pushing the CVs
It will drop down after alignment
Most generally its the upper shock bolt on the rear shocks which makes noise not the lower
It goes for alignment tomorrow. I had tightened the upper mount and I cant move it by hand any more. I have the y link extension to put on and will see if removing the sway bar does help.
Pretty sure if I wouldn't have bothered with the lift if it wasn't for the people on here.
Aceofspades
Full Access Member
Ordered 4 of the 4S’s for 487 shipped. Discount tire price matched a ebay listing. Plus I get the $70 mail in rebate again from cooper. So I’ll test em out this winter.
Looking at a set of moab 16” wheels. Forgot the specs vs stock wheels. Going to see if the seller knows and gives me a deal. If not they will get mounted to stickers again
Looking at a set of moab 16” wheels. Forgot the specs vs stock wheels. Going to see if the seller knows and gives me a deal. If not they will get mounted to stickers again
What size tires did you order ?
Hopefully 265-70-16s if running Moabs
The Moabs that actually fit ours are 8 inches wide and 5 inches of backspacing , work great with the wider tires
I ran them on both the 03 with 265-70-16 and 4.10s and 265-75-16s on the 04 again with 4.10s but always wanted 4.56s on it
Stock are 7 inches wide and 5 inches of backspacing
perfect wheel also for 245-75-16s etc are 7 inches wide and 4 inches of backspacing when lifted
Aceofspades
Full Access Member
Good to know! Thanks
https://chautauqua.craigslist.org/wto/d/4-jeep-wrangler-rimstires/6624658048.html
Is the link. I can’t get him down at all on the price. If he does , I’ll definitely order the next 4 in 265.
Unless you want to meet up sometime and do a gear swap - I think I’m SOL for changing my ratio at the moment.
so i loosened the bottom clevis bolt on one side then jumped on the front and retightened and repeated the process. got it aligned and now its much better at 22.25. i might have also measured wrong.
and then i discovered a gouge in the driver side rotor. pretty sure a hardware piece popped out. luckily brakes are easy when you just did them.
Not a bad price if you can get a couple years out of the tires.. Gotta figure 4 Moabs are worth about $150-$200... plus if you had to pay $60 to mount and balance tires of any sort... paying $100-$150 for 4 usable tires already on there.. if you get a year or two out of them, is a decent deal.
I'm still looking for a single Moab for sale near me.. I really want 5...only have 4.
