What did you do to your jeep today?

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tommudd

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In that case I'll go 265/75/16

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Its enough of a dog with 4.10s and 265-75-16s in some cases
Now 265-70-16s and 4.10s, way more fun
Coming up long mountain grades I can gain speed :icon_razz:
 

Myke

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Ended up going with the adjust a struts and not the fox upgrade.

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Royy

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Changed the transmission fluid and filter, and replaced the rusty old trans pan.
There were no metal shavings on the magnet in the old pan at all, that was a pleasant surprise for a transmission with 145k.
 

MTKross

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Replaced the rear Upper Control Arm. Only part that was a pain in the butt was getting the old ball joint un-seated. Everything else went smooth.

Also replaced the Transfer Case Switch and dimmer switch.

The dimmer switch was replaced because I'm trying to figure out why my interior map and dome lights stay on while I drive. They dim down substantially once the doors are closed but since I have LEDs they are still quite bright at night. Guess I'll try to trace a bad door switch next.

Also installed a trail rated 4x4 badge on the driver fender [emoji16][emoji1305]





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CzarKJ

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Replaced the rear Upper Control Arm. Only part that was a pain in the butt was getting the old ball joint un-seated. Everything else went smooth.

Also replaced the Transfer Case Switch and dimmer switch.

The dimmer switch was replaced because I'm trying to figure out why my interior map and dome lights stay on while I drive. They dim down substantially once the doors are closed but since I have LEDs they are still quite bright at night. Guess I'll try to trace a bad door switch next.

Also installed a trail rated 4x4 badge on the driver fender [emoji16][emoji1305]

It's because you have LEDs. Not enough resistance to turn them off. My LEDs do this as well.
 

Tog

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My led's do it also you need to get ones that are canbus rated

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MTKross

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Dang I knew buying the cheap LEDs was probably the wrong way to go. Thanks for the insight Czar and Tog!!!!

Tog, will the LED bulbs specify being canbus rated on the packaging? I'm assuming sylvanias new series probably is since it said plug and play on most vehicles. I was just being cheap and didn't want to spend $10 a bulb.

Guess I still spent it anyway on the new dimmer hahaha. At least all the lettering isn't faded like my old one.


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Tog

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Not sure on the packaging I'm in Australia none of the parts places here stock them gotta buy online those I have seen say it in the brief

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sota

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Happy you can, not enough here to even say there is snow

6" of heavy, wet stuff with a near inch layer of sleet-borderline-hail on top. not fun. 24 residences. 2 small commercial lots. 1 crazy f**ker chasing us at one point. :happy175:


Jeep and plow did the job. decided the money I'll be getting paid is going directly into 4.10's, DTT in back, possibly DTT in front as well.
need to make some changes (of course) to the plow set up. seems every storm I find something I can adjust or improve. going to open the drop valve so that the blade falls quicker. I have it set slow right now, but i think releasing it will give me a little more down pressure; think it's keeping some of the weight off the blade. also need to come up with a way to carry the gravel edge when not in use, and not have it get packed with snow; or i need to carry some kind of "tool" to clear it.
 

dhula

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Not today but yesterday-
Ordered new Mopar skid plates for the KJ. As it's a CRD it already has the one under the engine so I ordered the Tx, Fuel tank and Tcase ones.
Tx and fuel tank should be here in a week as they have to come from the other side of the country and the tcase one will apparently take 6-8 weeks as it has to come from the US. Ended up being cheaper going through a dealer than anywhere else.
Decided on Mopar ones as we don't beat the KJ on rocks and stuff so couldn't justify the cost of the aftermarket ones (Ken expensive here in Oz) and the price of getting something made locally was off the planet.

Fitted the Tx plate on the weekend. Easy Peasy to fit although the plate does not come with bolts etc as is kinda shown in the fitting instructions. The bolts and nutzert thingys are a 'you've got to buy them seperately' deal so I simply drilled all the way through the Tx X-member, filled the holes back so they were neat and tidy, painted them to make them look pretty (like the dirt cares :laughing1: , I really painted them to prevent the steel cancer from getting in) and then used some bolts and nuts I had in my stash of stuff in the shed.

I'll be fitting the fuel tank skid this weekend so hopefully that should be a doozy as well.
 

dude1116

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Replaced the rear Upper Control Arm. Only part that was a pain in the butt was getting the old ball joint un-seated. Everything else went smooth.

Also replaced the Transfer Case Switch and dimmer switch.

The dimmer switch was replaced because I'm trying to figure out why my interior map and dome lights stay on while I drive. They dim down substantially once the doors are closed but since I have LEDs they are still quite bright at night. Guess I'll try to trace a bad door switch next.

Also installed a trail rated 4x4 badge on the driver fender [emoji16][emoji1305]


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My led's do it also you need to get ones that are canbus rated

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Just an FYI - Canbus rated LEDs will still glow. You need to put a resistor in line to put resistance into the circuit.

My Scion tC doesn't glow. But the glow never bothered me any more than the gauge cluster, HU, climate controls, etc.
 

sota

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so is there a way to shut off the damn stability control? the traction control button only affects straight line reaction; as soon as I turn the wheel the brakes are being activated by the stability control functions. there were several times yesterday where I needed to swing the back end around but couldn't because SC would stop me. I know why it was kicking in (high steering angle and no actual steering effect) which is why I needed throttle to the rear. with the plow on and down it, well, plows the nose a bit so I need effective rear steer from throttle.
 

Myke

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Just an FYI - Canbus rated LEDs will still glow. You need to put a resistor in line to put resistance into the circuit.

My Scion tC doesn't glow. But the glow never bothered me any more than the gauge cluster, HU, climate controls, etc.
He is correct about needing a resistor. The leds use such a low amount of power that the stray/leaky power on the wires will be enough to cause them to emit light.

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Myke

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Ordered 2 rear glass lift supports, rear wiper, installed a new air filter, and brake job.

Used Napa ultra premium coated rotors front and rear, Napa ultra premium semi metalic front pads, and Duralast Max semi metalic rear pads. Going to get the brake fluid flushed.

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