What did you do to your jeep today?

[lfhoward]

Tightened up the UCA bolts and top plate bolts from my install in September. I have had a clunk on the drivers side ever since, and today I had time, good weather, and a good parking spot come together, so I dug back into it. I tightened both the drivers and passengers side for good measure. On the drivers side, I needed to remove the battery and battery tray for access. In the passengers side I had to remove the air box.

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There was a little bit of play, maybe 0.5 mm, that I was able to tighten. The torque spec is 80 ft-lbs, but I went to 90-ish because 80 was a bit loose. Notice the grease that squished out as the space closed.

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Now to go for a drive and see if the clunk is gone. Fingers crossed.

Edit: The clunk is still there!!!!! Doggone it. Tighten the sway bar links again maybe??? I am stumped.

 

[AJ9P]

Does anyone know what kind of screws are used to attach the center console cowling? The cover for the gear select and 4wd. I lost the container with all my screws in it

 

[AJ9P]

Tightened up the UCA bolts and top plate bolts from my install in September. I have had a clunk on the drivers side ever since, and today I had time, good weather, and a good parking spot come together, so I dug back into it. I tightened both the drivers and passengers side for good measure. On the drivers side, I needed to remove the battery and battery tray for access. In the passengers side I had to remove the air box.

You must be registered for see images attach

There was a little bit of play, maybe 0.5 mm, that I was able to tighten. The torque spec is 80 ft-lbs, but I went to 90-ish because 80 was a bit loose. Notice the grease that squished out as the space closed.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

Now to go for a drive and see if the clunk is gone. Fingers crossed.

Edit: The clunk is still there!!!!! Doggone it. Tighten the sway bar links again maybe??? I am stumped.

Discovered an interesting cost-saver thing for assorted tchochkes and such. You know that over-priced Made in China stuff we all buy on Amazon? Turns out you can actually get the exact same junk on Temu for less. scored a pair of Wrangler stainless steel hood latches that sell for 80-100$ on Scamazon for 20$. same junk way better price. free shipping right now too.

Yeah, I'm of the Made in the USA generation, but deep down we all know most everything is made overseas these days, even the "Made in USA" stickers they slap on to meet minimum requirements for the status.

Gen X: Dour, cheap, and appreciative of irony.

Just be careful of temu. I am a network security analysist and I can tell you the temp app does a lot of sketchy stuff with your data. Plus it’s run by the same company that had 3 other apps banned in the us for data theft

 

[CheddarGau]

Tightened up the UCA bolts and top plate bolts from my install in September. I have had a clunk on the drivers side ever since, and today I had time, good weather, and a good parking spot come together, so I dug back into it. I tightened both the drivers and passengers side for good measure. On the drivers side, I needed to remove the battery and battery tray for access. In the passengers side I had to remove the air box.

You must be registered for see images attach

There was a little bit of play, maybe 0.5 mm, that I was able to tighten. The torque spec is 80 ft-lbs, but I went to 90-ish because 80 was a bit loose. Notice the grease that squished out as the space closed.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

Now to go for a drive and see if the clunk is gone. Fingers crossed.

Edit: The clunk is still there!!!!! Doggone it. Tighten the sway bar links again maybe??? I am stumped.

Add more grease, also check the lower control arm bolts and make sure they are tight. My upper bushings had movement, adding more grease took care of that.

 

[lfhoward]

Add more grease, also check the lower control arm bolts and make sure they are tight. My upper bushings had movement, adding more grease took care of that.

The LCA bolts — do you mean the ones that are the alignment bolts? I have already made sure the clevis bolt is good and tight.

 

[sota]

racing to get done with everything that's in my way of turning the jeep into Mr. Plow.

 

[CheddarGau]

The LCA bolts — do you mean the ones that are the alignment bolts? I have already made sure the clevis bolt is good and tight.

Yes the camber/caster adjustment/alignment bolts.

 

[CheddarGau]

racing to get done with everything that's in my way of turning the jeep into Mr. Plow.

Sing the song and wear the jacket.

 

[Deb'nKJ]

I've never got on with Scamazon since a bad experience when it was an on-line bookshop.

Made the mistake of buying something a few months back (don't remember why now) but any saving is negated by the £8.50 they plunder from my card account every month for the totally useless, meaningless, but unavoidable "Prime" - last time it took over a year to get a refund & then they'd only backdate it 10(?) months. Of course, like all on-line operations, they have no complaints procedure & make damn sure they're almost impossible to contact.

Might take this up with Trading Standards, as I'm sure their very dubious practices are probably unlawful, e.g. having free trials you can't cancel.

Any way, enough of that - an alternative is attractive, although others (like "the 40 thieves" - no, sorry, AliBaba) are worse.

By an amazing coincidence, no sooner had I logged out than I found an e-mail from Scamazon advising me the membership I never wanted was about to expire. This was the ***** in their armour I so much needed. I promptly cancelled - yes, I was given that option- & the confirmatory e-mail said as I hadn't used it they would refund £8.99 (not £8.50 as I had thought). I thanked them but pointed out it should be £8.99 a month & almost immediately was offered another £8.99. I told them that wasn't good enough as, I think, it should be 4 months. Not had a response to that, but I now have a working e-mail address - so there will be reminders.

Now I'm not given to conspiracy theories but, increasingly I'm beginning to wonder just how many, supposedly, legitimate, business enterprises are just fronts for data harvesting.

 

[lfhoward]

Yes the camber/caster adjustment/alignment bolts.

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Smoking gun?

See the shiny bit at 3:00… this bolt shifts 1 mm to the outside.

This would be on the alignment guy. I never thought of this because I figured I would mess with the alignment if I did. And shouldn’t they be rock solid? No, I guess.

 

[CheddarGau]

You must be registered for see images attach

Smoking gun?

See the shiny bit at 3:00… this bolt shifts 1 mm to the outside.

This would be on the alignment guy. I never thought of this because I figured I would mess with the alignment if I did. And shouldn’t they be rock solid? No, I guess.

I had the same problem with mine after I did my alignment and definitely cranked mine on tight. I think as it moves to the new position and tightened I think its tight but the sub frame may have a raised bit that allows it to not be fully seated, shift and then your noise. In my case it was both camber bolts (rear ones).

Is it both sides?

 

[Luke]

Aliexpress is another source for the same stuff, without the middleman.

 

[lfhoward]

I had the same problem with mine after I did my alignment and definitely cranked mine on tight. I think as it moves to the new position and tightened I think its tight but the sub frame may have a raised bit that allows it to not be fully seated, shift and then your noise. In my case it was both camber bolts (rear ones).

Is it both sides?

The noise is only on the drivers side. It sounds like a clunk or a hollow thunk sound when I hit bumps with the left front wheel.

I tightened the clevis bolt and the axle nut while I was at it. I checked the brake caliper bolts too but of course they were tight. I have touched every nut and bolt under here.

I wonder if my rebuilt shock is the source of the noise? It’s a Bilstein 7100 coilover.

 

[CheddarGau]

The noise is only on the drivers side. It sounds like a clunk or a hollow thunk sound when I hit bumps with the left front wheel.

I tightened the clevis bolt and the axle nut while I was at it. I checked the brake caliper bolts too but of course they were tight. I have touched every nut and bolt under here.

I wonder if my rebuilt shock is the source of the noise?

Mine was a clunk. Make sure those control arm bolt/nuts are tight and see if it goes away

 

[lfhoward]

What does a coilover shock sound like when it loses its nitrogen?

Another thought is to remove the sway bar links and take the same short low speed drive as before, and see if the noise disappears.

I should also check the ball joints. They were brand new Moogs so I wouldn’t think one should fail so soon.

 

[lfhoward]

Mine was a clunk. Make sure those control arm bolt/nuts are tight and see if it goes away

Yup, tightened maybe 1/4 turn. I have 125 foot pounds as the torque spec on those.

 

[Noclutch]

Yup, tightened maybe 1/4 turn. I have 125 foot pounds as the torque spec on those.

Sorry if I didn’t see you mention this but have checked the rack and pinion bushings? That’s what solved my clunk sound when turning hard.

 

[lfhoward]

Sorry if I didn’t see you mention this but have checked the rack and pinion bushings? That’s what solved my clunk sound when turning hard.

I have not checked these yet but my rack and pinion is leaking and is in the queue to be replaced. I am probably going to go with new bushings from creativesteel.com vs. trying to find OEM bushings. I am refurbishing a used rack & pinion with brand new inner & outer tie rods from Moog.

Steering doesn’t affect the clunk though and it happens going straight too. But I will have a look at the state of those bushings for sure.

 

[Johnny O]

Just be careful of temu. I am a network security analysist and I can tell you the temp app does a lot of sketchy stuff with your data. Plus it’s run by the same company that had 3 other apps banned in the us for data theft

Yeah. I don’t/won’t use their app. Have appropriate security measures and gaps in place. Will be an interesting experiment.

 

[CheddarGau]

Yup, tightened maybe 1/4 turn. I have 125 foot pounds as the torque spec on thos

I have not checked these yet but my rack and pinion is leaking and is in the queue to be replaced. I am probably going to go with new bushings from creativesteel.com vs. trying to find OEM bushings. I am refurbishing a used rack & pinion with brand new inner & outer tie rods from Moog.

Steering doesn’t affect the clunk though and it happens going straight too. But I will have a look at the state of those bushings for sure.

OEM bushings are in stock at various NA DC'S. Just call your local dealer and order some. Mine came next day(depending on cut off time of the DC). Oddly enough Portland is our supplying DC and get here faster than the neighbouring province.