What did you do to your jeep today?

[Btownpreacher]

Bought a new turbocharger for my CRD today. That’s going to be interesting!

 

[derekj]

Put in some led footwell lamps today as my truck didn't have them from the factory. Can never have too much light inside the truck

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[turblediesel]

Bought a new turbocharger for my CRD today. That’s going to be interesting!

I hear they don't come off easily.

 

[Johnny O]

Bought a new turbocharger for my CRD today. That’s going to be interesting!

Absolutely have fallen in love with the turbo on Khan. Stomping the gas and getting a response still blows my mind.

 

[CheddarGau]

Absolutely have fallen in love with the turbo on Khan. Stomping the gas and getting a response still blows my mind.

Welcome to modern turbos! Wifes Mazda 4 cylinder turbo puts out more power than my old Durango 5.9L, and has the ability to pass a gas station without needing more fuel.

 

[sota]

Welcome to modern turbos! Wifes Mazda 4 cylinder turbo puts out more power than my old Durango 5.9L, and has the ability to pass a gas station without needing more fuel.

yes. but especially with these small displacement high output engines, I have questions and concerns about long term longevity. that 5.9L will run until the end of time with not much more than the basics of maintenance. what will these new engines be like in 100k, 200k, miles? will they get that far?

 

[CheddarGau]

yes. but especially with these small displacement high output engines, I have questions and concerns about long term longevity. that 5.9L will run until the end of time with not much more than the basics of maintenance. what will these new engines be like in 100k, 200k, miles? will they get that far?

Hard to say. Direct injection + turbo (my wifes engine) is a recipe for carbon. Toyota has largely avoided carbon issues with the dual injection system, but not many people are doing that. These engine need to get hot and they need to be driven hard. I actually haven't seen many issues with the 2.0L Turbo engine being used in chryslers. The method of having to install new oil pumps/timing/gear holder is a little odd, but can't really do much about it.
One thing I would strongly suggest is to not follow the manufactures (any manufacturer) oil change interval. historically engine had a 5000km interval and those were robust simple port injection engines. Throw in some 5w30 or 5w20 and move on with life. New engines are all GDI and turbo and have intervals around the 12000km-25000km mark(depending on brand). These engines have a HP fuel pump driven off a cam and are very sensitive to oil quality (think sand paper on a metal surface when old) and you see a lot of cams and HP fuel pums being replaced on this style of engine (not brand specific). There is also the issue of oil dilution and super knocking, which is too much fuel in the oil and you get an ignition in the crank case. Modern synth oil helps deal with this.

Long story short do oil changes every 5000km-8000km before the interval is due. Engine will be happy.

 

[Johnny O]

yes. but especially with these small displacement high output engines, I have questions and concerns about long term longevity. that 5.9L will run until the end of time with not much more than the basics of maintenance. what will these new engines be like in 100k, 200k, miles? will they get that far?

Apparently the JL direct injection is exceptional relatively speaking. Lots of angry folks got old school and preemptively dumped cash into aftermarket catch cans only to find they were empty. Lots of grumpy customer service folks confirming a catch can is useless on the 2LT I4s. LOL

The 2.0L I4 DOHC DI Turbo Engine w/ ESS in Khan is still a beast even though the previous owners literally did no preventative maintenance. The beat on it hard for three years (100+k miles). They never changed a plug or filter or battery and had been putting everything but the proper oil in it. It still ran when I bought it, but not well- rough idle and serious turbo lag, 14-16mpg. After plugs and filters and proper fluids and such, pulls 22mpg around town and chirps the tires if you stomp on it too hard. That is a pretty solid testament to the design (in my mind) as it survived abuse by stereotypical Ugly Americans.

 

[Johnny O]

Hard to say. Direct injection + turbo (my wifes engine) is a recipe for carbon. Toyota has largely avoided carbon issues with the dual injection system, but not many people are doing that. These engine need to get hot and they need to be driven hard. I actually haven't seen many issues with the 2.0L Turbo engine being used in chryslers. The method of having to install new oil pumps/timing/gear holder is a little odd, but can't really do much about it.
One thing I would strongly suggest is to not follow the manufactures (any manufacturer) oil change interval. historically engine had a 5000km interval and those were robust simple port injection engines. Throw in some 5w30 or 5w20 and move on with life. New engines are all GDI and turbo and have intervals around the 12000km-25000km mark(depending on brand). These engines have a HP fuel pump driven off a cam and are very sensitive to oil quality (think sand paper on a metal surface when old) and you see a lot of cams and HP fuel pums being replaced on this style of engine (not brand specific). There is also the issue of oil dilution and super knocking, which is too much fuel in the oil and you get an ignition in the crank case. Modern synth oil helps deal with this.

Long story short do oil changes every 5000km-8000km before the interval is due. Engine will be happy.

I agree on oil change intervals. I'm old school so 3000 miles (5000ish km) for dinosaur engines, 7000 miles (4000ish km) for modern full synthetics. Shorter intervals for high heat and/or dusty air quality. On the Rubi I split the difference and do it every 5000 miles (8000ish km).

Jeep recently downgraded their ridiculous 10k mile interval to 6k mile interval for the JLs and JTs.

 

[CheddarGau]

The 2.0L I4 DOHC DI Turbo Engine w/ ESS in Khan is still a beast even though the previous owners literally did no preventative maintenance. The beat on it hard for three years (100+k miles). They never changed a plug or filter or battery and had been putting everything but the proper oil in it. It still ran when I bought it, but not well- rough idle and serious turbo lag, 14-16mpg. After plugs and filters and proper fluids and such, pulls 22mpg around town and chirps the tires if you stomp on it too hard. That is a pretty solid testament to the design (in my mind) as it survived abuse by stereotypical Ugly Americans.

Yeah good quality fluids will clean it out good. Turbos love clean fluids, they spin up to super high RPM, and historically were oil cooled. Yours is water cooled, but good oil will also aid in the cooling and I'm sure the bearings will a hair happier.

At some point you will need to de-carbon the intake valves at some point, but getting hot, lot's high way and full throttles every trip helps reduce that. Happens to every brand, can't be helped. Remove intake, walnut shell and move on.

 

[KJowner]

Just seen a 110hp 1.2 turbo 3 cylinder in bits in my friend garage 15,000 miles is the recommended oil change interval! It made it to 40,000 before the camshaft became round and it ate itself, just out of warranty I believe too.
The owner is having the bare minimum done to get it running again, I hate to think what the rest of it is like with all that shrapnel in the oil.

 

[CheddarGau]

I agree on oil change intervals. I'm old school so 3000 miles (5000ish km) for dinosaur engines, 7000 miles (4000ish km) for modern full synthetics. Shorter intervals for high heat and/or dusty air quality. On the Rubi I split the difference and do it every 5000 miles (8000ish km).

Jeep recently downgraded their ridiculous 10k mile interval to 6k mile interval for the JLs and JTs.

Yeah no more than 8000km

Just seen a 110hp 1.2 turbo 3 cylinder in bits in my friend garage 15,000 miles is the recommended oil change interval! It made it to 40,000 before the camshaft became round and it ate itself, just out of warranty I believe too.
The owner is having the bare minimum done to get it running again, I hate to think what the rest of it is like with all that shrapnel in the oil.

Fluids fall under emissions, so every manufacturer is trying to stretch them out and much as possible and those are the issues you get. Make it to warranty then not your problem. On our oil change stickers we will put 8000km if it's a synthetic oil. Some customers get mad when we put it so low, but they are the ones who will have problems in the future.

 

[Deb'nKJ]

Aliexpress is another source for the same stuff, without the middleman.

Yeah, but their complaints/returns procedure's in Chinese!

 

[sota]

plow mode engaged.

 

[sota]

So I never got a consensus on those 15" Cherokee wheels, fitting on a liberty.

 

[lfhoward]

@CheddarGau the clunking in the front suspension is not as pronounced today (maybe happens 30% less often over bumps if I am not imagining it) so I think I just need to crank those LCA alignment nuts a little more. Will try that over the weekend and report back.

 

[CheddarGau]

@CheddarGau the clunking in the front suspension is not as pronounced today (maybe happens 30% less often over bumps if I am not imagining it) so I think I just need to crank those LCA alignment nuts a little more. Will try that over the weekend and report back.

Do as the Germans do, and not the Russians. Good-n-tight not brokenoff.

 

[Luke]

Yeah, but their complaints/returns procedure's in Chinese!

I didn’t encounter that problem, I’ve only had to correspond once though. I don’t really buy anything that I would bother returning… it’s the small dollar stuff that they excel at like 100 assorted automotive trim clips for $1.99! Set of 10 mini files for $1.79 Battery terminal brush $1.09 that’s US dollars. All shipped free in a few weeks.

This… was $9.97, had low expectations… but honestly it couldn’t be made any better. It’s exactly as pictured, thick canvas.

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That’s just my experience though… I don’t recommend anyone shop anywhere they feel is suspect.

 

[Btownpreacher]

I hear they don't come off easily.

I’ll start soaking it now so that by the time the new one gets here the old one might come off

 

[derekj]

Yeah good quality fluids will clean it out good. Turbos love clean fluids, they spin up to super high RPM, and historically were oil cooled. Yours is water cooled, but good oil will also aid in the cooling and I'm sure the bearings will a hair happier.

At some point you will need to de-carbon the intake valves at some point, but getting hot, lot's high way and full throttles every trip helps reduce that. Happens to every brand, can't be helped. Remove intake, walnut shell and move on.

Oil changes are so important on turbo engines - just replaced both turbo's on a 3.5 that had a pretty sparse service history, and it only had 113,000km's on it.