Broken sway bar link bolt

[lfhoward]

My extended JBA sway bar links were from 2014 and were making my a ton of noise. I found sway bar links to replace them from Teraflex for lifted JK’s. They’re a little shorter but they will work fine. Still longer than stock.

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I was able to remove the old links and the sway bar itself, and remove the old 2008-era bushings. I have Moog bushings to take their place.

This is my problem right now.

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I broke the head off of that bolt. I have been soaking it in Kroil and have two nuts on it, hoping to be able to break it free. It will not budge. I am looking for other ideas.

Keep in mind how close to the fuel filler hose this is…

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… so I am a little hesitant to use fire or a welder here. Is it far enough away to be safe? I would prefer to try other ways first. I am all ears…

Thanks in advance.

P.S. The upper shock bolts are going to be the same way. They will not budge. I haven’t broken the heads off them yet though.

 

[Luke]

Heat FTW! If you don’t want to risk it or protect the lines with something you can try a small butane torch (lighter on steroids) so you are better able to control the heat. This worked for me when I was too close to brake lines.

 

[lfhoward]

Luke, do you have a link you can share that shows the kind of butane torch you mean?

 

[Luke]

You should find one at any convenience store … they are refillable. They come in many degrees of unnecessary.

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[lfhoward]

Oh that’s interesting. Looks much easier to control. Can I get an 18 mm grade 8 bolt nice and red hot with that?

 

[Luke]

Butane and propane have about the same (air) temperature. You just have to spend a bit more time as the flame is smaller. It’s definitely a less frantic operation as a result.

 

[lfhoward]

Yeah I have been looking at getting a Bernzomatic torch with an adjustable flame and Mapp gas, but it seems like it might be a little too unpredictable for this particular situation. It is probably not a bad idea to have one at some point though. I like the little butane torch idea for this.

 

[Jeremy-WI]

Yeah I have been looking at getting a Bernzomatic torch with an adjustable flame and Mapp gas, but it seems like it might be a little too unpredictable for this particular situation. It is probably not a bad idea to have one at some point though. I like the little butane torch idea for this.

There isn't any MAPP gas left, it was discontinued years ago and the MAP Pro isn't what MAPP was

 

[Luke]

At worst it’s probably a $5 experiment, including a can of butane that will last you forever.

It worked on my rusty brake line fittings.

 

[KJowner]

Just make a shield from crumpled tinfoil for the lines, they are several inches away so it's only sparks you need to worry about (** as long as you can't smell fuel around there! **)
I'd have no issue with welding a nut on the broken stub.

 

[DadOSix]

There isn't any MAPP gas left, it was discontinued years ago and the MAP Pro isn't what MAPP was

Thanks for that! Didnt realize mapp is no more.

 

[DadOSix]

Perhaps a friend with a portable oxy/acetylene setup could get it hot enough.

Dont neglect the old warm bolt melted crayon trick. Press a crayon on the warm threads and let it penetrate. Gets in where even pb blaster fears to tread.

 

[lfhoward]

Welding a nut on will be my plan B if heat doesn’t work. But hoping it will!

 

[KJowner]

Welding a nut on will be my plan B if heat doesn’t work. But hoping it will!

With how close those lines are I'd rather weld a nut on than blast a blow lamp in there, the welder will only heat the broken stub up.

 

[AFT2008KK]

Can you get a stud remover on the bolt thats left? Or perhaps one of the electric coils that heat up the broken bolt? Both can work magic togther?