Broken sway bar link bolt

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lfhoward

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My extended JBA sway bar links were from 2014 and were making my a ton of noise. I found sway bar links to replace them from Teraflex for lifted JK’s. They’re a little shorter but they will work fine. Still longer than stock.

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I was able to remove the old links and the sway bar itself, and remove the old 2008-era bushings. I have Moog bushings to take their place.

This is my problem right now.
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I broke the head off of that bolt. I have been soaking it in Kroil and have two nuts on it, hoping to be able to break it free. It will not budge. I am looking for other ideas.

Keep in mind how close to the fuel filler hose this is…
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… so I am a little hesitant to use fire or a welder here. Is it far enough away to be safe? I would prefer to try other ways first. I am all ears…

Thanks in advance.

P.S. The upper shock bolts are going to be the same way. They will not budge. I haven’t broken the heads off them yet though.
 
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Luke

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Heat FTW! If you don’t want to risk it or protect the lines with something you can try a small butane torch (lighter on steroids) so you are better able to control the heat. This worked for me when I was too close to brake lines.
 

Luke

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You should find one at any convenience store … they are refillable. They come in many degrees of unnecessary. ;)

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lfhoward

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Oh that’s interesting. Looks much easier to control. Can I get an 18 mm grade 8 bolt nice and red hot with that?
 

Luke

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Butane and propane have about the same (air) temperature. You just have to spend a bit more time as the flame is smaller. It’s definitely a less frantic operation as a result.
 

lfhoward

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Yeah I have been looking at getting a Bernzomatic torch with an adjustable flame and Mapp gas, but it seems like it might be a little too unpredictable for this particular situation. It is probably not a bad idea to have one at some point though. I like the little butane torch idea for this.
 

Jeremy-WI

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Yeah I have been looking at getting a Bernzomatic torch with an adjustable flame and Mapp gas, but it seems like it might be a little too unpredictable for this particular situation. It is probably not a bad idea to have one at some point though. I like the little butane torch idea for this.
There isn't any MAPP gas left, it was discontinued years ago and the MAP Pro isn't what MAPP was
 

Luke

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At worst it’s probably a $5 experiment, including a can of butane that will last you forever. ;)

It worked on my rusty brake line fittings.
 

KJowner

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Just make a shield from crumpled tinfoil for the lines, they are several inches away so it's only sparks you need to worry about (** as long as you can't smell fuel around there! **)
I'd have no issue with welding a nut on the broken stub.
 

DadOSix

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Perhaps a friend with a portable oxy/acetylene setup could get it hot enough.

Dont neglect the old warm bolt melted crayon trick. Press a crayon on the warm threads and let it penetrate. Gets in where even pb blaster fears to tread.
 

KJowner

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Welding a nut on will be my plan B if heat doesn’t work. But hoping it will!
With how close those lines are I'd rather weld a nut on than blast a blow lamp in there, the welder will only heat the broken stub up.
 

AFT2008KK

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Can you get a stud remover on the bolt thats left? Or perhaps one of the electric coils that heat up the broken bolt? Both can work magic togther?
 

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lfhoward

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Can you get a stud remover on the bolt thats left? Or perhaps one of the electric coils that heat up the broken bolt? Both can work magic togther?
Just ordered a magnetic induction heater! It arrived this afternoon and I’ll try it out tomorrow. This I think is maybe the best option near the fuel filler hose, directed flameless heat! Kind of pricey but I see all sorts of future use for this thing. I not only have the 08 Liberty but also an 07 Commander now. There will be a few seized nuts and bolts, guaranteed.
 

lfhoward

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Reporting in…

I broke it again!!!
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Here are the two nuts I was using as jam nuts. Well that didn’t work.
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Well it worked a little. I did get the stud to turn maybe 1/8 of an inch before this happened. The induction heater was great. Every time the bolt would start to seize up again I would hit it with heat and then a spray of penetrating fluid.

The way it eventually came out was welding a nut on there and turning it with locking pliers and a two foot piece of black pipe.
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I covered the fuel filler hose and vent hose with my welding sleeves to protect it from the shower of sparks. My shirt was not so lucky.

But here we are.
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I couldn’t have got it out without this.
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Or this.
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So there is seven hours of my day today. Every single thing hurts. But it feels awesome to have won.

The rusty sway bar goes back on tomorrow with old bushings and new links. I ordered a new one from Mopar but it won’t be here in time for a trip I need to make on Wednesday, but when it gets here I will swap the old one out and the new one in. I have brand new Moog bushings for it as well. I didn’t want to ruin them on the old bar, so the 17 year old bushings will be going back on temporarily. Here is the original rusty sway bar.
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KJowner

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All that joy from one bolt LOL
I'm a fanatical copperslip user, I only ever struggle once!
 

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