92fox
Full Access Member
Well nevermind then...lol
HOW TO: Change Transfer Case Position Switch
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Just changed mine last night. Thanks for the how to.
You will get a check engine light. In CO, check engine is not good because you cant pass emissions if its on.
Notes:
You do need a deep well 1-1/2" socket. regular one doesn't work.
Use an extension.
Pull the emergency brake as far up as you can.
Don't forget to switch out the O-ring. Caught myself just before installing the new one.
With the center console off, I tore it down and wash it and vacuumed out under it all of the french fries and doritos and spilled soda. Plus clean the carpet in between the seats.
-Scott
You will get a check engine light. In CO, check engine is not good because you cant pass emissions if its on.
Notes:
You do need a deep well 1-1/2" socket. regular one doesn't work.
Use an extension.
Pull the emergency brake as far up as you can.
Don't forget to switch out the O-ring. Caught myself just before installing the new one.
With the center console off, I tore it down and wash it and vacuumed out under it all of the french fries and doritos and spilled soda. Plus clean the carpet in between the seats.
-Scott
CzarKJ
Full Access Member
Anyone have a another picture of the connector? I am having a hard time removing it.
Lambeau
New Member
Just changed mine on a 2006 Liberty Sport (108,300 miles), 1 hour-15 minutes. Best post I've found to follow on the web is RockyMountain, post #59, page 6.:deal: Thank you Sir!
Be patient with the connectors. The one on the shifter bezel has a red locking tab you need to move to one side in order to remove it.
Bought the OEM part from our local dealer, ~$80 including tax. It was worth it to me to get OEM part, and support local dealer who does the "hard" stuff for us!
NOTE: Original problem was that the PART TIME light was on when it was in 2 wheel-high, and went off when it was in 4-wheel high. Replacing the switch fixed the problem in this case.:Hump:
Be patient with the connectors. The one on the shifter bezel has a red locking tab you need to move to one side in order to remove it.
Bought the OEM part from our local dealer, ~$80 including tax. It was worth it to me to get OEM part, and support local dealer who does the "hard" stuff for us!
NOTE: Original problem was that the PART TIME light was on when it was in 2 wheel-high, and went off when it was in 4-wheel high. Replacing the switch fixed the problem in this case.:Hump:
cplchris
Full Access Member
we should make this a sticky for people having the issue in the future
aquickmopar
Full Access Member
Does it matter what TCase you have? Or does the only part # I saw posted " 5083 138AA" work for all. TCase options on the liberty? I too will need to replace this part and it will be for a 04 Libby Renegade with the np242 FullTime option. I just wanna make sure before I order the part thanks.
dude1116
Full Access Member
How on EARTH did you do this??? I can't get a small vice up there for the life of me. Maybe a 1-1/2" socket...but I don't have one at the moment.
CzarKJ
Full Access Member
Ya I went in from the top and used the large socket. I Just couldn't access it from the bottom and when I opened the top I had no room for a wrench!
dude1116
Full Access Member
I can see how a socket would work.
Anyone have an explanation how to get the plug off of it? I can't really tell.
CzarKJ
Full Access Member
Here is what it looks like. On the side there is a little clip you have to push or spread. I can't remember which. But it was had for me.
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dude1116
Full Access Member
Funny because I took the same pictures to see what's up there and STILL can't tell. I tried pushing, pulling, scraping. O_O Can't manage it.
CzarKJ
Full Access Member
I tried to get it from below and couldn't. As soon as I saw it from the top... 2 seconds haha
dude1116
Full Access Member
Managed to get it done. 
Once I took off the connector (had to squeeze the tab towards the top of the flat side), I shoved on a 38mm socket, shoved a socket wrench up there, managed to get it on and cranked it off. Then got the new switch in...then realized i forgot the O-ring and did it all over again. Took 5 minutes the second time after knowing what to do!!
Once I took off the connector (had to squeeze the tab towards the top of the flat side), I shoved on a 38mm socket, shoved a socket wrench up there, managed to get it on and cranked it off. Then got the new switch in...then realized i forgot the O-ring and did it all over again. Took 5 minutes the second time after knowing what to do!!Ignored this wrong light indicator ("Part-time" in 2WD) for months now since didn't really care what a light said... I know when my Liberty is in 4WD. However, this past week indicator light had started quickly flashing. After a few miles it felt like I had broken u-joint on front propeller shaft or had broken CV joint in the front end. Limped back home 5 miles at 20 MPH with major clunking and front-end shuddering. Once in the garage, examined front end and could find no broken drive component. Disconnected transfer case switch and now everything back to normal in 2WD. Possibly transfer case or transmission entered mode where it/they were confused by transfer case switch signal via PCM and found improper operating mode. Have new transfer switch on order. More to come.
Anyone else experience drivability problem with a faulty transfer case position switch?
Anyone else experience drivability problem with a faulty transfer case position switch?
dude1116
Full Access Member
Nope. It's literally just a sensor. The only thing that it changes is low-end torque in 4-LO. That and the indicator. That's all.
Gdubs
New Member
This Forum Roxx
I cant thank this forum enough without it I would have never known the issue and paid a whole hellova lot more to get-r-done. Went to Mopar online and the price was good but with shipping and the extended time to get here not worth it , found a local dealer in Summit NJ were I bought it and it was actually a little less than
Hardest part was getting the connector off of the sensor ( I am in NJ and did this today @ 15 degrees in January )
Could this be done from underneath - yes but I am not that good and took the center console out - much easier and I cleaned the console and shifters/shifter covers along with everything else .
total time with no issues should have took 30 minutes - to do it my way and clean everything 1:15
I cant thank this forum enough without it I would have never known the issue and paid a whole hellova lot more to get-r-done. Went to Mopar online and the price was good but with shipping and the extended time to get here not worth it , found a local dealer in Summit NJ were I bought it and it was actually a little less than
Hardest part was getting the connector off of the sensor ( I am in NJ and did this today @ 15 degrees in January )
Could this be done from underneath - yes but I am not that good and took the center console out - much easier and I cleaned the console and shifters/shifter covers along with everything else .
total time with no issues should have took 30 minutes - to do it my way and clean everything 1:15
jms
New Member
Big thanks to everyone who posted info in this thread. I just did this today from underneath the Jeep, without a lift or any tool except a 1/2" drive ratchet and the 1 1-/2" socket. I don't think it's a 10 minute job unless you've done it before, but definitely easier than tearing apart the center console.
So for those who were confused about how to get at the thing, you have to come from the rear side of the transfer case, and reach up and over it, and the sensor is the first thing you'll feel. I tried to get some pictures/videos while I did this but they didn't come out that great, but hopefully in addition to all the other good info people have posted they'll help someone.
This is where it's located from the FRONT side of the transfer case... no way you're gonna access it on this side.
You've gotta come from the rear side and over the top...
Here's a video and picture of what you're looking for.
http://youtu.be/bfuo_nFPs9s
Now get your socket and ratchet up there and loosen her up. Mine came loose without much effort but if yours is seriously stuck you may not have enough space to get it loose and might have to go through the console after all.
Old and new side by side. The old one, like others have reported, makes a grinding noise when the plunger is depressed. I wonder if the spring inside simply get rusty and gunks things ups. I put a bit of dielectric grease around the o-ring and threads and the OUTSIDE of the male connector for good measure.
Here's a better view of the female end of the connector. You can see that little tab at the top... you need to press that firmly to remove it. The hardest part of this job for me was getting the switch threads to catch in that hole. If you're lucky and get it quick, then this could really be a 10 minute job, but I struggled to get the threads lined up for like 20 minutes... remember the exact orientation of the switch when you take it off to save yourself some headache.
Finally, I got the part for $55 w/ free shipping on Ebay. Check around before you spend anymore! Hope this helps someone.
So for those who were confused about how to get at the thing, you have to come from the rear side of the transfer case, and reach up and over it, and the sensor is the first thing you'll feel. I tried to get some pictures/videos while I did this but they didn't come out that great, but hopefully in addition to all the other good info people have posted they'll help someone.
This is where it's located from the FRONT side of the transfer case... no way you're gonna access it on this side.
You've gotta come from the rear side and over the top...
Here's a video and picture of what you're looking for.
http://youtu.be/bfuo_nFPs9s
Now get your socket and ratchet up there and loosen her up. Mine came loose without much effort but if yours is seriously stuck you may not have enough space to get it loose and might have to go through the console after all.
Old and new side by side. The old one, like others have reported, makes a grinding noise when the plunger is depressed. I wonder if the spring inside simply get rusty and gunks things ups. I put a bit of dielectric grease around the o-ring and threads and the OUTSIDE of the male connector for good measure.
Here's a better view of the female end of the connector. You can see that little tab at the top... you need to press that firmly to remove it. The hardest part of this job for me was getting the switch threads to catch in that hole. If you're lucky and get it quick, then this could really be a 10 minute job, but I struggled to get the threads lined up for like 20 minutes... remember the exact orientation of the switch when you take it off to save yourself some headache.
Finally, I got the part for $55 w/ free shipping on Ebay. Check around before you spend anymore! Hope this helps someone.
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KC_Ryback
New Member
06 Liberty transfer case switch install
I just finished putting a transfer case switch in my 06 Lib and I'm happy to say that I was able to access my switch by reaching over the top of the back of the transfer case with a 1/2 drive ratchet and a regular 1-1/2" socket. Fortunately for me it was only a 10 minute job. I was having the same issue that so many others have reported with the part time light coming on in 2wd and going out when switched to 4wd. I used and ohm meter to compare the resistance difference between the old switch and the new one. The old switch measured near infinite resistance throughout the whole movement of the plunger on the switch. My new switch read from 60 ohms to 1200 ohms throughout its plunger movement. After installing the new switch my part time light works perfectly as does my 4wd low light. I found my new switch on EBAY for $40.00. It is a brand new OEM mopar part. It's the best $40.00 I ever spent. Hope this helps others with the same issue.
I just finished putting a transfer case switch in my 06 Lib and I'm happy to say that I was able to access my switch by reaching over the top of the back of the transfer case with a 1/2 drive ratchet and a regular 1-1/2" socket. Fortunately for me it was only a 10 minute job. I was having the same issue that so many others have reported with the part time light coming on in 2wd and going out when switched to 4wd. I used and ohm meter to compare the resistance difference between the old switch and the new one. The old switch measured near infinite resistance throughout the whole movement of the plunger on the switch. My new switch read from 60 ohms to 1200 ohms throughout its plunger movement. After installing the new switch my part time light works perfectly as does my 4wd low light. I found my new switch on EBAY for $40.00. It is a brand new OEM mopar part. It's the best $40.00 I ever spent. Hope this helps others with the same issue.
Another Ohioan :shrug:
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