HOW TO: Change Transfer Case Position Switch

[kidjedi]

So... it would seem anyone saying they have changed out this switch in under 10 minutes are prone to hyperbole, no matter if they went from the top or underneath (I did both). Even if all the planets were aligned, someone had done this many times before, and nothing went wrong while doing it, I really don't think you could do this in 10 minutes. That said, it's not too difficult, it should just be noted that 10 minutes is certainly an exaggeration.

I wanted to post a couple of things that should make this an easier process for those who come after.

First, the wire connector that attaches to the actual switch (what you will replace) comes off by pressing the flat part closest to the wires. It's a lever retaining clip, and when you pinch at the wire end it will allow the connector to come off the switch.

The switch is in the shape of a 1 1/2" nut, thus you can use a 1 1/2" socket to remove it, but it will need to be a shallow socket (not a deep well), because there is NO space in there for a deep socket. My socket set tops out at 1 1/4", so I just used a channel lock. After just barely twisting the switch with the channel locks, I was able to finish unscrewing the switch by hand; a couple times I had to give it a little extra oomph with the channel locks, but I was able to do it mostly by hand, which is good since there is VERY little room to work in there.

The "o-ring" at the base of the threads on the switch isn't really a typical o-ring. It's more of a gasket (a flat piece of rubber, not a rounded ring). This thing is there to keep crud and moisture from getting inside the switch from underneath the vehicle, which is probably why your switch failed in the first place (even with the gasket there). This gasket will obviously help, but contamination can still enter the switch from inside the t-case (where the plunger is for the switch).

The biggest reason I'm posting: when I was putting everything back together to test the switch, I found that my 4wd shifter was just flopping around. Turns out the shifter cable slips over a pin on the transfer case arm and is held in place with a retaining clip. My clip is gone. It's not on the ground, and judging by the plastic washer on the inside of the cable loop that slips over the t-case pin (between the loop and the t-case selector), I think it probably deteriorated and fell off a while ago, and the cable has been hanging on by tension alone.

Now I need to figure out what kind of retaining clip to use to keep the cable attached to the t-case arm so the shifter will work again.

 

[kidjedi]

On more thing... looking at Downtown's posts 11 and 12 (the autopsy pics)...

It's really weird that my switch seems to be "one off," but it doesn't seem possible unless the switch plates were a circle (not a line like in the pics).

I left the switch hooked up and pressed it with my finger, and fully pressed (what should be 2 wheel), my dash reads Part Time. Next is Full Time, then nothing (neutral), then Low 4Wheel. Fully "unplunged" the dash reads nothing (what it should look like for 2wd).

So the order is the same as the shift lever, but it's out of sync by a jump from first to last (which again, would be easy if the switch plate was a circle and it just got "bumped" to the next one, but it's not!).

Looking at tjkj2002 and redpoint5's ohm resistance readings, this is my hypothesis: the contact arms have physically moved down one "notch," thus fully depressed is "part time," then on down the sequence to end with "open" (redpoint5's bad switch 4-lo ohm reading) reads as nothing on the dash, and that's what happens when the contact arms are touching none of the contact points on the switch. If you could open the switch and shift the contact arms back one "notch," it seems like the switch might function correctly again.

 

[HoosierJeeper]

I need some help. My 2004 Liberty is dropping out of higher gear around 50 mph and entering Limp mode (3rd gear). This happens after ten minutes of normal driving in 2 HI. My part time light is intermittent, so I know the transfer gear sensor/switch is bad. Would this bad switch cause the Jeep to go into limp mode? The dealer says it will.

No, it wouldn't. Pretty sure it wouldn't.

Also, what happens in 2HI if I disconnect this switch? Thank you

Nothing

 

[dude1116]

So... it would seem anyone saying they have changed out this switch in under 10 minutes are prone to hyperbole, no matter if they went from the top or underneath (I did both). Even if all the planets were aligned, someone had done this many times before, and nothing went wrong while doing it, I really don't think you could do this in 10 minutes. That said, it's not too difficult, it should just be noted that 10 minutes is certainly an exaggeration.

Nope. After doing it once, forgetting to install the O-ring (and yes...it was a rubber O-ring), it literally took 15 minutes. Could I go back and do it in 15 minutes now? No. It's easy to feel the angle that is needed to get at the switch from underneath the vehicle after having just gotten it.

The switch is in the shape of a 1 1/2" nut, thus you can use a 1 1/2" socket to remove it, but it will need to be a shallow socket (not a deep well), because there is NO space in there for a deep socket. My socket set tops out at 1 1/4", so I just used a channel lock. After just barely twisting the switch with the channel locks, I was able to finish unscrewing the switch by hand; a couple times I had to give it a little extra oomph with the channel locks, but I was able to do it mostly by hand, which is good since there is VERY little room to work in there.

I was able to use a deep socket just fine. It was tight but worked out.

The "o-ring" at the base of the threads on the switch isn't really a typical o-ring. It's more of a gasket (a flat piece of rubber, not a rounded ring). This thing is there to keep crud and moisture from getting inside the switch from underneath the vehicle, which is probably why your switch failed in the first place (even with the gasket there). This gasket will obviously help, but contamination can still enter the switch from inside the t-case (where the plunger is for the switch).

Pics? Mine was definitely an O-ring.

 

[kingsrow2]

Changed out the Case Position Switch today. Light still on, maybe I didn't tighten it enough? Not sure what else to check. Any ideas, thanks...

 

[dude1116]

Changed out the Case Position Switch today. Light still on, maybe I didn't tighten it enough? Not sure what else to check. Any ideas, thanks...

Pull the battery to reset it at that rate.

 

[kingsrow2]

Thanks Dude, tryed the battery, didn't change anything.

 

[dude1116]

Might be a bum switch then? :shrug:

 

[kingsrow2]

Transfer Case Switch

Well, if it helps anybody, I changed it out from under the car, pretty easy, I have small hands. I did manage to change out the bulb that lights the shift lever position. Sylvania 2721LL. Oh, the part time light is still on. Bad switch, maybe, I am not going to buy another one.

 

[Logan Savage]

Undoubtedly one must have the right tools but I just changed the one in my 05 a few days ago & it just took a few minutes . Pulled it up on ramps & did it from underneath .

 

[nohitter64]

I just used a deep socket with 1/2" drive to remove the old one from underneath. My Liberty is an 06. As mentioned previously I accessed from the back of the transfer case and had the handle pointing to the rear of the vehicle. Not much room but enough to break it free and then came out by hand. The new switch wouldn't fit in the standard depth socket so I had to get the deep well. It worked fine.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[hazmatmonkey]

Would you guys lean more towards the position switch or the motor? I'm working on a friend's 2010 Liberty Sport 4X4. The 4 Low light just flashers. He's pretty broke, so I can't shotgun parts until it works...
Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

[redpoint5]

So... it would seem anyone saying they have changed out this switch in under 10 minutes are prone to hyperbole, no matter if they went from the top or underneath (I did both). Even if all the planets were aligned, someone had done this many times before, and nothing went wrong while doing it, I really don't think you could do this in 10 minutes. That said, it's not too difficult, it should just be noted that 10 minutes is certainly an exaggeration.

Well, it took me 11 minutes the first time. I imagine it would take 5 minutes if I ever had to do it again now that I know that shifting into 4Lo makes it much easier.

I explain in this thread how I did it:

http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/f202/how-change-t-case-position-sensor-quick-method-under-vehicle-51959/

 

[dude1116]

Would you guys lean more towards the position switch or the motor? I'm working on a friend's 2010 Liberty Sport 4X4. The 4 Low light just flashers. He's pretty broke, so I can't shotgun parts until it works...
Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Completely different t-case...so I'm going to guess it's not the switch.

 

[SirRonny]

Ok, my 05 Jeep Liberty Renegade started doing the light on out of 4x4 mode and light on when in of 4x4 awhile back. Not wanting to pay the fee that Chrysler was wanting, I unplugged it. Fast forward a year or two and I found a switch on Rock Auto for $37. Bought it, installed it and didn't work at all, no lights through any of the 4x4 ranges. Removed the switch and on pressing the little button, lights all worked as I slowly pressed the button on the switch. Stick my finger in the hole where the switch goes and I can feel the part moving that presses on the switch as I move it through the ranges. Any ideas? Renegade have a different switch? Just the wrong part?

Sent from my LG-H871 using Tapatalk

 

[Royy]

Same thing initially happened to me when I installed it. After installing it, start up the engine, move the 4x4 lever and the shifter through all the positions (don't worry about the light not working at this point), then get it back into 2WD and Park, turn off the engine.
When you turn it on again, it should work.

I think what happens is that when you install it, the new switch is not automatically in the same position as the transfer case. The transfer case is (for example) in 2WD, while the new switch is (for example) in the 4WD High position. Moving it through all the positions and then turning off the vehicle seems to basically reset it.

 

[Supreme]

Just adding images from my 2006 CRD. You cant use a socket on the switch it's to fair inside the shift housing. So vise grips or wrench are the only options.

Back View

Front View

 

[lightfoot44]

No need to bother replacing transfer case position switch...Here's why.

I just took my 2003 Jeep Liberty into the dealer to have a malfunctioning transfer case position switch replaced. No need to do it yourself. This part has a recall on it. They replaced the part and did the labor for free. If you have a 2002 or 2003 Jeep Liberty you should be able to have this done under the recall for free.

 

[mmindenhall]

Just adding images from my 2006 CRD. You cant use a socket on the switch it's to fair inside the shift housing. So vise grips or wrench are the only options.

Hey @Supreme...were you able to do this on your CRD? If so, please respond with pointers. I found I couldn't get a deep well socket on there from above, so I bought a shallow. I was able to get it on, but couldn't get any torque on it due to the angle (even using an elbow). I tried looking from below...there's no gap to reach through from behind (as others have suggested). I'm starting to think that on a CRD the entire T-case has to be removed just to swap out this sensor!

 

[josuemira]

I need help.. Somebody knows which is the polarity of the sensor. It´s because the conector is broked, and i have the bare wires.

greetins!