Required Fluid Types

[nzoliver]

Call the dealership and give them part #68048953AA,that is the correct part # for the correct coolant,also labeled as MS-9769 on the bottle.

Yep. It isn't too expensive either from the dealers. For a change :freak3:

 

[Mojo_kj]

This thread is fantastic, really helped me out!!

But how do I know WHICH fluid to use in my front and rear diff??
Also - is it "ok" to use Synthetic? I have used Motul in the past on other vehicles and it was great, LOVED it. But I just dont want to do it if any out there have had negative experiences - premature wear and the like...


Quote:
FRONT DIFFERENTIAL: 80W-90, 75W-90, 75W-140
(change every 12,000-15,000 miles)
(2.6 pints)

REAR DIFFERENTIAL: 80W-90, 75W-90, 75W-140
(change every 12,000-15,000 miles)
(4.3 pints)

 

[STINGN]

usually you should go the 75-90 route for DD...the 75-140 is more towing/offroad gear oil...either will work

 

[brokendad]

Here is a tip on oil changes: go to jeep.com and register as a jeep owner. They will send you any recalls if your Liberty hasn't had the work already done. And they will send you Mopar coupons for things like oil changes, air filters etc;. I get my oil done at the local Dealer under a service contract that gives me four oil & filter changes for $60 bucks. Around here you can't buy the stuff for $15 bucks a change. at my dealership they are trained to not read the expiration date on any Mopar coupon. So I have two oil changes left on my contract and received a new coupon for four more oil changes, called the service dept. and asked they said wait until you use your present contract up and then bring the "new" coupon in.

 

[samlesher]

Newbie question:

Should I use ATF-4 in my transfer case even if I have a manual transmission?

 

[TwoBobsKJ]

Newbie question:

Should I use ATF-4 in my transfer case even if I have a manual transmission?

YES!!!

Doesn't make any difference whether auto or manual. ONLY use ATF+4 in the t-case.

Bob

 

[moparman]

YES!!!

Doesn't make any difference whether auto or manual. ONLY use ATF+4 in the t-case.

Bob

I did use ATF-4 in mine but... I don't want to make warranty problems for someone else but I wouldn't be so hung up on ATF-4 in the t-case... ATF-4 is a cheap & satisfactory fill at the factory level due to the nature of ATF, (a superior lubricant that doesn't hurt rubber and can work under pressure) but the T-case doesn't hold pressure or have pumps inside it. Splash lubricated. I have seen 90w, dexron & 30w non detergent oil in older vehicles, and then there was a move to lighter viscosity oils in the mid 70s. Same with manual transmissions. I would be more concerned about the exact fluid in a full time AWD system with clutches, but I don't think the NP242 has them.

From Novak Conversions; The standard 231 weighs about 70 lbs. HD 231's can weigh up to 80 lbs. Fluid capacity of the 231 is from 1.5 up to 2 quarts. ATF is the factory recommended fluid, however many individuals have chosen to run a straight 30 weight oil or 5W30 in a mineral or synthetic. Our experiences with these and those reported to us by our customers indicate positive results in noise reduction and wear resistance.

 

[tjkj2002]

I did use ATF-4 in mine but... I don't want to make warranty problems for someone else but I wouldn't be so hung up on ATF-4 in the t-case... ATF-4 is a cheap & satisfactory fill at the factory level due to the nature of ATF, (a superior lubricant that doesn't hurt rubber and can work under pressure) but the T-case doesn't hold pressure or have pumps inside it. Splash lubricated. I have seen 90w, dexron & 30w non detergent oil in older vehicles, and then there was a move to lighter viscosity oils in the mid 70s. Same with manual transmissions. I would be more concerned about the exact fluid in a full time AWD system with clutches, but I don't think the NP242 has them.

From Novak Conversions; The standard 231 weighs about 70 lbs. HD 231's can weigh up to 80 lbs. Fluid capacity of the 231 is from 1.5 up to 2 quarts. ATF is the factory recommended fluid, however many individuals have chosen to run a straight 30 weight oil or 5W30 in a mineral or synthetic. Our experiences with these and those reported to us by our customers indicate positive results in noise reduction and wear resistance.

Might want to do a little more research,your t-case does have a fluid pump in it,it also has a fluid cooler.besides that any ATF will work in your t-case,does not have to be ATF+4 as the t-case and trans do not share fluid.You can run 5w-20 motor oil also if you like and in hot climates 5w-30 would be okay also but no thicker.No clutches in the 242 t-case also so your safe running any ATF or 5w-20 motor oil.

You need to go a long ways back to gear to gear t-cases like the D20 and NP205's and you used gear oil(80w-90),gear to gear t-cases do not have a pump.My Atlas is gear to gear and has no pump and I run 20w-50 motor oil or 75w-90 GL5 gear oil.

 

[moparman]

Did not know about the fluid pump so I learned something new, already a good day!

Of course all this is confusing to someone who is just trying to get the OE stuff in their T-case. But if you are a DIY'er you have to know all of the angles in case the parts store that is open on Sunday doesn't have exactly what you need.

 

[Barzef]

Hi, my vehicle is 2003 KJ renegade 3.7L AT

I have recently changed automatic transmission fluid in my KJ but had to use ATF 3 instead of atf4. I have some earlier problems in my transmission and will go to service in around 7-10 days do you think this ATF3 will cause damage in this period? Should I stop using my car immediately until going to service?

note: after using atf3, shifting time from N to D or N to R increased significantly in addition shifting berween L-2-3 are more strongly sensed

thanks

 

[tjkj2002]

Hi, my vehicle is 2003 KJ renegade 3.7L AT

I have recently changed automatic transmission fluid in my KJ but had to use ATF 3 instead of atf4. I have some earlier problems in my transmission and will go to service in around 7-10 days do you think this ATF3 will cause damage in this period? Should I stop using my car immediately until going to service?

note: after using atf3, shifting time from N to D or N to R increased significantly in addition shifting berween L-2-3 are more strongly sensed

thanks

ATF+3 is the non-synthetic version of ATF+4.I'd limit your driving as ATF+3 has not been produced for 15 years so that fluid you used is very old and may not protect the trans very well.

 

[Barzef]

ATF+3 is the non-synthetic version of ATF+4.I'd limit your driving as ATF+3 has not been produced for 15 years so that fluid you used is very old and may not protect the trans very well.

Thanks for the reply I will go to service asap and change atf3 to atf4

 

[vaksanov]

I have 2 questions, first of all which synthetic oil do you guys prefer? Valvoline or Mobile 1? Is there really that big of a difference between them? I have used Valvoline for the last two changes and it runs pretty smooth.
On that note, for some reason i had a brain fart and put in 10w-30, i don't know how i didn't see it on the cap and how i happened to think 10w was the right one. But that's what i used today. Do i need to change my oil again to 5w-30 right away or should I be ok till the next one? My baby has 132K on it. Will it do any damage in the next 3k?

Thank you

 

[tjkj2002]

I have 2 questions, first of all which synthetic oil do you guys prefer? Valvoline or Mobile 1? Is there really that big of a difference between them? I have used Valvoline for the last two changes and it runs pretty smooth.
On that note, for some reason i had a brain fart and put in 10w-30, i don't know how i didn't see it on the cap and how i happened to think 10w was the right one. But that's what i used today. Do i need to change my oil again to 5w-30 right away or should I be ok till the next one? My baby has 132K on it. Will it do any damage in the next 3k?

Thank you

Both are not true synthetic oils,just highly refined dino oil that meats the governments rec's for synthetic rating.Mobil 1's extended performance is a true synthetic oil.




You can run 10w-30 in the KJ as long as the temps stay above 32 degrees so you will be fine for the next 3k since it's summer time here in CO and will not get anywhere close to 32 degrees.

 

[dljacko]

Here in AUS we don't experience freezing temperatures much, more like 80-100F so we do not normally use anything under 15W-30 for normal vehicles. Only high performance cars seem to recommend 5W-30, so my dealer has always used 10W-30 or 15W-30 in my KJ MY2005. I think the oil type is extremely important, as is the oil change interval because these Mercedes designed 3.7L engines have very small oil galleries and are prone to blocking if the oil gets gunky. My dealer has told me that they had many problems with lubrication in all 3.7L motors starving the left side head (as mine did and it snapped the camshaft) and requiring work or rebuild, so I have the oil and filter changed at 5000kms or sooner if I don't do many long runs.

 

[tjkj2002]

Here in AUS we don't experience freezing temperatures much, more like 80-100F so we do not normally use anything under 15W-30 for normal vehicles. Only high performance cars seem to recommend 5W-30, so my dealer has always used 10W-30 or 15W-30 in my KJ MY2005. I think the oil type is extremely important, as is the oil change interval because these Mercedes designed 3.7L engines have very small oil galleries and are prone to blocking if the oil gets gunky. My dealer has told me that they had many problems with lubrication in all 3.7L motors starving the left side head (as mine did and it snapped the camshaft) and requiring work or rebuild, so I have the oil and filter changed at 5000kms or sooner if I don't do many long runs.

Mercedes had nothing to do with the design of the 3.7 V6.The 3.7 is based off the 4.7 V8 which was actually a AMC design that was to replace the 318/360 engines but waited and then AMC was bought out by Chrysler which rode out the 318/360 for as long as they could before building AMC's SOHC designed engines.

 

[02redKJ]

Changed my oil in my 02 yesterday with Mobil 1 extended performance. The container says 15000 miles between changes. I have never used synthetic oil before now. I've been changing my oil myself for over 31 years. I broke the engine in for the first 5000 miles with standard oil. First oil change was at 200 miles, then at 1000 miles, then at 3000 miles, and now at 5000 miles. I planned to do each future change at 10,000 to 12,000 miles. Already I can tell the engine is running more smoothly.

Has anyone had experience with this oil? Did you extend the mileage between changes? Have you seen any adverse affects on your engine from doing this? My liberty has140,000 miles on it, but the engine only has 5000 miles on it. It is a re manufactured engine that has larger ports for oil flow, as well as upgraded timing chain guides and some other things too, to address the known issues with the 3.7 engine.

I just don't want to do anything that may harm my engine. This may end up being the last vehicle I own. I want to take the best care of it, that I possibly can.

Edit: The filter I choose is the Bosch Distance Plus D4322. Says it has a 300% capacity, and has 99.9% efficiency to filter more and smaller particles.

 

[LibertyTC]

Regardless of what oil you use change by every 5 k miles period. Synthetics clean very well & will pull the dirt out!
Many of the forum members here do use Mobil 1 synthetics and will tell you extending to 10,to 15k miles without a filter change in-between or an oil analysis, are engine problems waiting to lurk in your darkened oil.
How are the friction modifiers with other contaminants at 10 k miles...????
I run Mobil 1 syn /Napa Gold filter (wix filter) and by 3500 miles after the jeep sits over night, I pull the dipstick and view the gunk/brownish colored oil on the bottom.-Yuk=
Why have dirty oil in your precious Jeep?- Not me...I change it!!!
Never seen that Bosh Distance before..looks interesting..and ok ??
Best known filters are Purolator-Mobil1- K&N- and Napa Gold are Wix which are good value and work well.
I also use the taller filter which has more filter capacity # 1516
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Just remember oil is CHEAP..Engines are not.
A Happy Jeep always has CLEAN oil !

 

[TheBlueKJ]

I have seen those Bosch filters before at work but i don't really know much about how well they perform. Me personally I use a Purolator Pure One filter, and after my crank seal is changed will also be making the swap to Mobil 1

 

[tommudd]

I've used Mobil 1 (extended in the KJ) for years now ( last twenty-twentyfive at least or more) Never have I ran it over 3000-4000 miles. I know they say you can but just in the habit of changing it that often and rotating tires at the same time.
With almost 210,000 on it it has started using a little bit of oil, but still half way on the safe line even at 3500 miles this time so I'll continue doing the same