Suspension pop while turning or hitting a bump

[JasonJ]

Also, remember that the reason for all of this is that an IFS- independant front suspension relies on all other parts involved to work properly.. so if one link in the chain has a kink in it, the whole system is FUBAR and you are seeing exactly how that can manifest itself.

With a solid front axle like Wranglers and older Cherokees and such, you can get away with spacer lifts, funky angles to things and cheaping out in places... with IFS, one thing you do affects another thing.. and then that part means you have to replace a third thing to make it all work right to keep good wheel and axle geometry.

This is part of the reason why a lot of off-roaders HATE IFS, and why getting so much as a modest 3" lift on something like a KJ costs two to three times as much as on a Wrangler or other older Jeep.

 

[HoosierJeeper]

I’d actually say the KJs are easier to lift moderately than an XJ or TJ or anything SFA. Easily lift the KJ 3” with coils, shocks and some JBA UCAs. Seems like on the SFA stuff you have to do steering stuff, drop the tcase a little, etc. never lifted one, just going by what the kits include

 

[tommudd]

I’d actually say the KJs are easier to lift moderately than an XJ or TJ or anything SFA. Easily lift the KJ 3” with coils, shocks and some JBA UCAs. Seems like on the SFA stuff you have to do steering stuff, drop the tcase a little, etc. never lifted one, just going by what the kits include

I'd rather do 3 KJs than one TJ, XJ etc

 

[K Dje Ryu]

I've done all those and (re-)designed the suspension on the rear of this (my crawler):

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The only thing I REFUSE to help with again is Frod TTB lifts. Everything else is easy as pie, in comparison.

 

[K Dje Ryu]

I should also add, here, that Tomm gave me this same speech some 14 years ago. The KJ in my sig had a spacer lift for about 6 months, iirc. Springs are just better.

 

[Daltong2000]

Update on the situation. Took it to the shop today for a quote on how much it'd take to just get it fixed temporarily until I can afford a full OME lift and they told me easiest fix is to "grind down the back of the bump stop housing so it will clear without making contact" and completely ignored the fact that the strut assembly is curved. They told me they'd do what they had to do to fix it because they stand behind their work free of charge but now they say it's going to be $160. Plus $60 for another alignment because they have to drop the strut assembly again. I'm not letting them grind away at my bump stop housing. Starting to sound like a chop shop to me.

 

[Daltong2000]

Update on the situation. Took it to the shop today for a quote on how much it'd take to just get it fixed temporarily until I can afford a full OME lift and they told me easiest fix is to "grind down the back of the bump stop housing so it will clear without making contact" and completely ignored the fact that the strut assembly is curved. They told me they'd do what they had to do to fix it because they stand behind their work free of charge but now they say it's going to be $160. Plus $60 for another alignment because they have to drop the strut assembly again. I'm not letting them grind away at my bump stop housing. Starting to sound like a chop shop to me.

If anyone here has any social media (Instagram or Facebook. I dont have Twitter) I'll send you a picture of what the drivers side looks like. How curved the drivers side is. The forum wont let me add images.

 

[JasonJ]

If anyone here has any social media (Instagram or Facebook. I dont have Twitter) I'll send you a picture of what the drivers side looks like. How curved the drivers side is. The forum wont let me add images.

Email it to me, and I will post it to my Imgur account and link it here.

<deleted>@gmail.com

<redacted>

 

[JasonJ]

Update on the situation. Took it to the shop today for a quote on how much it'd take to just get it fixed temporarily until I can afford a full OME lift and they told me easiest fix is to "grind down the back of the bump stop housing so it will clear without making contact" and completely ignored the fact that the strut assembly is curved. They told me they'd do what they had to do to fix it because they stand behind their work free of charge but now they say it's going to be $160. Plus $60 for another alignment because they have to drop the strut assembly again. I'm not letting them grind away at my bump stop housing. Starting to sound like a chop shop to me.

If it looks like how I think it does, I bet they installed the coil over the shock incorrectly.. the only reason why it would curve is if the spring is not seated properly in the spring seat...

And by bump stop housing, do they mean where the bump stop is installed in the upper wheel well, or where it contacts the upper control arm on full compression?

 

[Daltong2000]

They mean where the bump stop sits in the top of the wheel well. Where its welded to the chassis

 

[Daltong2000]

Just sent it Jason.

 

[JasonJ]

They mean where the bump stop sits in the top of the wheel well. Where its welded to the chassis

Firstly, that's stupid. Also, your bump stop looks like hell. Lol.

Post coming with photo.

 

[JasonJ]

Ok, here's the photo... I reaffirm my belief that this is assembled incorrectly.

Spring doesn't look seated in the seat.

Either that or the shock rod is bent.

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For comparison... Here's my OME with bilstein shock, and below that, my old one compared to new... Note how not bent or curved and my spring fits neatly into the notch of the upper seat.

When tightening the whole assembly, the installer must make sure to hold the spring in position, or else it WILL shift and do what the OP's is doing.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[Daltong2000]

I know I know I need to replace the bump stops lol. The shock rod isnt bent. Its straight in there. Its just the spring itself. I'm going to take it to my buddies to figure out what is going on. If its seated wrong or whatnot today

Also where are you located? Has to be in the salt belt. Not bashing. Just noticed the surface rust and was curious.

 

[JasonJ]

I know I know I need to replace the bump stops lol. The shock rod isnt bent. Its straight in there. Its just the spring itself. I'm going to take it to my buddies to figure out what is going on. If its seated wrong or whatnot today

Yeah, I was only pointing out that there are only so many things that can cause it to do that.

I have yet to install my new TeraFlex bump stopsas well. Been a pain trying to get the old ones out.

 

[Daltong2000]

Theres a video on YouTube of a girl popping them out like its nothing with a crowbar and reinstalling them in under 10 minutes

 

[JasonJ]

That's how it normally goes....

 

[Daltong2000]

Regardless I'll keep this thread updated as to what the issue actually is. I have a feeling it's as you said, improperly seated.

 

[JasonJ]

just keep in mind, that if when you’ve got it all done and fixed, and it ends up changing the right height on that corner, you may need to have it realigned.

take center of hub to edge of wheel flare measurements before and after you do the work.

if it is what I suspect it is, then clearly it’s because the shop assembled it wrong. They should realign it on their dime. I wish you luck in convincing them to do so. Might be easy, might be hard.

 

[tommudd]

Update on the situation. Took it to the shop today for a quote on how much it'd take to just get it fixed temporarily until I can afford a full OME lift and they told me easiest fix is to "grind down the back of the bump stop housing so it will clear without making contact" and completely ignored the fact that the strut assembly is curved. They told me they'd do what they had to do to fix it because they stand behind their work free of charge but now they say it's going to be $160. Plus $60 for another alignment because they have to drop the strut assembly again. I'm not letting them grind away at my bump stop housing. Starting to sound like a chop shop to me.

Wow , what kind of dumb*** shop are you dealing with ?
Grind down the back of the bumpstop LOL
I've close to 60 Liberty lifts, including mine, never have I seen, heard or read anything as dumb as that.
They clearly did not install it right, and makes me wonder what else they did not do right, I mean come on now common sense
They need to fix it on their nickle, not yours and no grinding, cutting allowed

And you can see where the bumpstops are clearly hitting the UCA what springs and shocks did you use ?