Leeann, you did a transmission in your driveway/front yard a few years back, right? How does this one look? I may be asking for install tips at some point!
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That really looks to be in decent shape2011 42RLE with 80K and some pine needles on it.
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Rear view
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Front view. The torque converter has a little surface rust. It was stored outdoors.
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And the seller threw in some front rotors and a caliper for free.
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I will have a little cleanup to do on this transmission since it has been two years since it ran, and was stored outdoors under a tarp. But it looks in decent shape, and no rust on the electrical connectors.
All in all it is a very easy job, now at any dealership shop they make it out to be something akin to open heart surgery LOLWorked on the 03 Renegade today, did the driverside lower ball joint and driverside upper control arm. The 2 18mm bolts inside the engine bay weren’t too hard or rusty to get off(surprised since this car has been on the east coast for most of it’s life),found a clear path with a few extensions plus swivel, removed battery and battery tray to get to it also. I was lowkey trying to to set up a appointment to Jeep to get the F23 lower ball joints recall but apparently someone got the recall done in 2006 lol wow. All in all it’s not a difficult job once your familiar with the front suspension set up
With a closer inspection in the daylight, I don’t see any evidence of critters. There is some dust in the threads but also a coating of ATF+4 as a deterrent.I would think they’d hate the smell of ATF+4. I mean, I do.
And purchase a good set of 3/8Yep, that looks more than decent.
The most important tool I acquired before removal/reinstallation was a 15” extension and universal joint adapter that I wrapped in a little electrical tape, keeping it from being too floppy. Made the upper bellhousing bolts a breeze to reach and remove. I think it was a recommendation from Bob…maybe?
Get new Mopar input/output speed sensors and replace them. A filter kit, of course. Does your KK have a dipstick tube (I can’t remember)? Mine does and replacing the o-ring/seal was much easier when it was out.
Check your trans cooler lines. If they look anything but solid, replace them when you have the trans out. If you have an external trans cooler, take it off the truck to clean it out and turn it so the inlet and outlet are vertical, not horizontal, and blast it with trans cooler cleaner. Both ways. If internal in the radiator, you can clean it with the rad on the truck.
Oh - and If you haven’t, get a front driveshaft head rebuild kit and do that when you have it out of the truck anyway.
You can do the job with a floor jack and a chunk of 2x4, but the harbor freight little trans jack makes it quite a bit easier. And it’s not expensive.
That’s all I can think of at the moment
Cold Beer. Deadblow hammer. Appropriate workin' music. Can of Free All for the seriously rusted stuff. Can of Kroil for general pen.etrati.ng needs.. Also a can of computer keyboard cleaner. (Use it with the can upside down and it freezes difficult stuck stuff to help you break it loose.. Think of it as an anti-torch. POR15 if you want to restore the crossmember.Took a crack at making a list so I can start to accumulate parts and tools:
Transmission job - stuff to get:
Anything conspicuously missing? (Other than tools I already have)
- Creeper
- Transmission jack
- 8” ramps or 6 ton jack stands
- Heavy duty transmission pan
- Mopar filter kit
- ATF+4
- Mopar input/output speed sensors
- O ring for dipstick tube or
- Transmission seals kit
- 15” extension & universal joint
- RTV
- Transmission cooler lines (replace?)
- Trans cooler cleaner (spray can)
- Transmission crossmember (old is super rusty)
- Propane torch?
- Aftermarket dipstick