What did you do to your jeep today?

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tommudd

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Had to take it in to shop because 3.7 decided to take a poop today after giving 193,000 + miles. Looking to hear anyone's experiences on the issue of a 3.7 heart transplant.
Read up on twobobs adventures on replacing his with a newer 3.7
 

tjkj2002

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Was nice enough and I was off early enough(forecasting snow on my dayoff) I finally replaced my alternator(Denso remaned).Got a 4 for 1 deal,fixed the dropping amps at higher rpm,trans shifts better(PCM/TCM memory retained not erased),LTFT's went back down to normal which will net me better mpg's.


Thought I had to track down a mystery vacuum leak causing my high(positive) LTFT's which were in the 14%-16% range forcing more fuel into the combustion chambers.Well poor amperage from the alternator was the cause,who new and that is a 1st for me and since the voltage was correct the PCM didn't know any better.Still had 14.6 volts but the amps would cut in half at about 2500rpm's which is where my engine spends most of it's time and drawing off the battery to make up the lost amps.Which in turn was always leaving my battery low on charge,amps are rock steady right up to redline now.
 

streetglideok

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Very interesting. I've been running 7-8% LTFT on mine here. I know I have a vacuum loss at the brake booster, just haven't checked to see if it is a check valve, or the booster itself.

We headed up to Cripple Creek to see the end of the ice festival. Ran around some of the dirt roads in Teller and Park County before stopping for lunch in Woodland Park. Really good burgers at Ute Pass Brewery. There's my lil plug for them, lol
 

tjkj2002

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Very interesting. I've been running 7-8% LTFT on mine here. I know I have a vacuum loss at the brake booster, just haven't checked to see if it is a check valve, or the booster itself.
Yeah a few months ago I was running between 2.5% and 5% when it started creeping up I changed the PID's on my Edge display.

Was the Denso a 136A or 160A?
A slightly juiced 136amp one now rated at 145amps.
 

02blue

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I did a reman 136 Denso from Rock Auto a couple years ago. Thought about the 160 but since the factory one was 136 I just went with it. Haven't really added anything yet to need an upgrade.
 

nohitter64

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Repaired broken window regulator clip with aftermarket metal clip. 1 down, 3 to go....waiting until the next warm day. don't want the shame of driving with a duct taped window again :)
 

streetglideok

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Work was dead slow today, so pulled out the RL rock sliders I just picked up used, and sanded and put a coat of paint on them. May put another coat on them for good measure and give them plenty of time to dry.
 

TheBlueKJ

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Changed a split evap hose and no more check engine light. Now hopefully my mpgs will go up since that hose was split pretty bad.
 

KJmurf

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Yesterday...replaced the passenger mirror I broke backing out of the garage!!! :wtf2:

Last couple days...have been in the garage fabbing a roof rack for my buddies TJ using a Harbor Freight 12 ton pipe bender and 1.5"x .120 steel tubing. Don't let anyone tell you that you can't bend steel tube with a $75 ($99 x 25% off coupon) pipe bender. There is a way (and it is not packing tube with wet sand or making some clamping set-up) and it works awesome (no flat spots on top and very, very little pinching on the underside. Some folks (on the internet) want to completely shoot down your ideas, just because they can't figure it out themselves. I tried to tell them that they gotta go outside the box sometimes. You don't need a $600 tube bender for self fab projects. If I were selling these things, then yes, but I am helping my friends out and they love it (and the idea of a $200 roof rack system and not a $700-Wilderness or $1500-Gobi rack). Sorry, I am done ranting now.

It is very similar to this one by Wilderness, but all welded on top, except for 2 bolts connecting front hoop to lateral bars. Hinged at the rear so he can pull it towards the back and still put his rag top on/off.

Have the front mounts and front hoop done, working on back vertical bars and connecting lateral bars today. If you want to see more, I will start posting pics in my album this evening.

KEEP ON FABBIN'
 
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Leeann

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Nothing. Rode in it twice as a passenger. Not cleared to drive yet and I hate it.
 

4x4kayak2112

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Don't let anyone tell you that you can't bend steel tube with a $75 ($99 x 25% off coupon) pipe bender. There is a way (and it is not packing tube with wet sand or making some clamping set-up) and it works awesome (no flat spots on top and very, very little pinching on the underside.
KEEP ON FABBIN'

Ok how?



Sent with the power of children's screams!!!
 

KJmurf

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Ok how?

Ancient Irish secret...I am coming out with a late-night infomercial, so my agent has said I can't give it out for free...:biggun:

Kidding...here goes...whatever size tube you are using, e.g. (I used 1.5" x .120), use the pipe die that is 1/2" smaller, e.g. (therefore I used the 1" pipe die). The tube will sit on the edges of the die and as the tube is bent, it will start to push into the die and seat itself on the bottom arch of the die.

Also, you can use a grinder with a flat wheel sanding disk and polish the inside of the die (removing the paint and little imperfections on the die, but be careful not to take a bunch of metal off or round any of the edges. Made this mistake and had to weld an edge back on...then grind it back down to the original edge. PITA!! This polishing will help in preventing a lot of "pinching" on the underside of the bend.

Now on the pics I am posting in my album (and the 2 below) show a small indentation (dent) on the tube were the rollers are pressing on the straight sides. To prevent this...use a piece of sheet metal (say 18 gauge) that is formed into a half-circle and place it on the tube, between the the tube and the rollers.
My buddy doesn't care (he actually likes the look) and it is a small inconvenience when you are taking it in and out of the bender to check fitting.

Now again I stress that it is not going to be a "professional" looking job, but after grinding and painting I don't think you would hardly be able to tell. Strength is going to be determined by your welds (see pic 2-unfinished weld). On that note though, I have seen some pretty shi#$y looking welds, but I do not doubt their strength for the application they were used in.
 
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