Pm sent
What did you do to your jeep today?
- Thread starter TheQ
- Start date
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I regeared the Dana 30 to 5.13s to match the Ford 9" in the rear. Before anyone says anything. I don't expect the d30 to survive very long with 37s/513 gears.
The pinion is so tiny. The contact pattern is a thin line.
I am on the hunt for a better and wider front axle. This was only my second time doing gears. First time without a removable 3rd member or pinion support.
First let me say shims are stupid and I hate them. The 9" was so easy to build compared to the d30. Even just a removable pinion support would have made it 10x better. I even made a set of install bearings that can be removed/installed by hand.
I will be doing more research to see what my options are but it's looking like I may build a high pinion 9" for the front if I can find a hp9 case for a decent price. If I do end up with a d44 or d60 I will make sure I build it before installing it. Not being able to use my press for the bearing races sucked. It was pure luck my first shim stack behind the pinion bearing race set the correct depth.
Anyway I put in 4wd and it didn't explode immediately. My 9" is nearly done being broken in. I think I have another 100-150 miles. I was thinking about pulling the rear shaft and driving in 4wd to break-in the front gears after I change the rear gear oil.
The pinion is so tiny. The contact pattern is a thin line.
I am on the hunt for a better and wider front axle. This was only my second time doing gears. First time without a removable 3rd member or pinion support.
First let me say shims are stupid and I hate them. The 9" was so easy to build compared to the d30. Even just a removable pinion support would have made it 10x better. I even made a set of install bearings that can be removed/installed by hand.
I will be doing more research to see what my options are but it's looking like I may build a high pinion 9" for the front if I can find a hp9 case for a decent price. If I do end up with a d44 or d60 I will make sure I build it before installing it. Not being able to use my press for the bearing races sucked. It was pure luck my first shim stack behind the pinion bearing race set the correct depth.
Anyway I put in 4wd and it didn't explode immediately. My 9" is nearly done being broken in. I think I have another 100-150 miles. I was thinking about pulling the rear shaft and driving in 4wd to break-in the front gears after I change the rear gear oil.
Charlesthe2nd
Full Access Member
Oil change. Also replaced the sway bar end-link lower bolts. I had a temporary set of grade 10 bolts in there because the dealership couldn't get the bolts to me before our cross-country move/road trip. Couldn't believe how bad they had corroded, took a good minute to break those nuts loose. Bonus, finally no knock/pop from the sway bar.
Also, while I was under the Jeep I noticed there was a good bit of leakage coming from the driver's side of the transmission. Seems to be coming from the shifter linkage mechanism. Lots of play in and out on it, so it seems to me like there could be something wrong with that. Any direction or ideas on what and how serious of a problem this is?
Also, while I was under the Jeep I noticed there was a good bit of leakage coming from the driver's side of the transmission. Seems to be coming from the shifter linkage mechanism. Lots of play in and out on it, so it seems to me like there could be something wrong with that. Any direction or ideas on what and how serious of a problem this is?
Joenavy85
Full Access Member
This will be part of my suspension work next month, pretty sure that's where my noise is coming from.
Kal-El
Full Access Member
Did some rear end work today... re-torqued the newly recall-installed LCA's, put in new bump-stops, replaced the upper coil seats, and nudged the height up a bit by trimming the old seats and putting them under the new ones.
And now the question...the old bump stops were the same height, and the new ones are significantly taller...did the old ones simply just wear off or do I have to break out the saw?
And now the question...the old bump stops were the same height, and the new ones are significantly taller...did the old ones simply just wear off or do I have to break out the saw?
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Must have the 45RFE since you have an 02. I'd also check out the following how to from uss2defiant: http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/f202/how-45rfe-transmission-transducer-pressure-sensor-59389/
I had an annoying leak on my 02 years ago and it turned out to be the o-ring on the pressure sensor. It's on the passenger side but only showed on the driver's side of the pan. Not saying the loose shifter linkage isn't leaking too, but the o-ring swap is pretty easy.
New ones will compress a lot
Charlesthe2nd
Full Access Member
Yea, it's in my sig. I'll take a look at the pressure sensor next time I'm under there, considering it's 16yo, it needs that to be checked at the least.
The leak definitely looks like it's coming from the shifter linkage on the driver's side. That side of the pan is "clean" from the ATF seeping out, and there is even ATF dripping off the drivers side of the transfer case skid plate so it's coming out while I'm driving. Has anyone else had this issue? I've been searching all over to no avail, doesn't seem like anyone has posted this specific problem on here.
Charlesthe2nd
Full Access Member
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Took a little detour on the way to work yesterday. We both had fun playin in a little bit of mud.
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Jo6pak
Full Access Member
Changed the oil/filter and air filter. Switched to synthetic, not sure what was in it when I bought it.
The top side oil filter made is a lot easier than the KJ, but I had to get the jack out to slide under it to the drain plug.....definitely needs a lift SOON!!
The top side oil filter made is a lot easier than the KJ, but I had to get the jack out to slide under it to the drain plug.....definitely needs a lift SOON!!
Royy
Full Access Member
Does anyone have any tips on how to remove duct tape residue from a window and door frame?
My driver's side rear window regulator broke last week in the middle of a 600-mile trip, and I had to duct tape the window to keep it up because it was raining pretty bad.
My driver's side rear window regulator broke last week in the middle of a 600-mile trip, and I had to duct tape the window to keep it up because it was raining pretty bad.
Goo gone or maybe a little wd-40.
Addrock29
New Member
Hood Vents
Finished cutting holes in my perfectly good hood.
Finished cutting holes in my perfectly good hood.
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Kal-El
Full Access Member
Ditto. Works good.
Aztimer2
Full Access Member
Let the wife drive it today. Radiator hose went out in her Mazda
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
D-LIMONENE! You can order it on ebay in bulk for cheap. I get mine from Florida Laboratories on Ebay.
Seriously the best stuff ever for removing sticky residues. It's super safe and non-toxic. I drank it to prove to my employees its safe lol. We user it to remove screen adhesive when doing cellphone and tablet repairs.
Good suggestion! The power of citrus. You could just rub and orange or lemon peel on it... :happy175:
Same stuff in those citrus based hand cleaners and man do they cut through anything.
GitEmSteveDave
Full Access Member
Replaced the plugs and coils. I hate plug 6. Couldn't seem to get the right combo to tighten it w/o hitting clearance issues. After replacing I only had a pending code on cylinder 1 for misfire, but it seems to have cleared. Here are some photos of the existing coils, and their replacement, which includes a much needed cover to prevent tons of crap getting into the plug hole.
Removed plugs and coils.
Passenger Side Plugs
Drivers Side Plugs
And on the plugs I checked, they still seemed to meet gap clearances.
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Removed plugs and coils.
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Passenger Side Plugs
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Drivers Side Plugs
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And on the plugs I checked, they still seemed to meet gap clearances.
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profdlp
Fired
Checked the oil.
(It was still there.)
(It was still there.)
Aceofspades
Full Access Member
Amen
