What did you do to your jeep today?

[Noclutch]

I would flush out the entire cooling system. If at any point global coolant is used with 5 year or 10 year (HOAT), you will get sludge (gelling) and it will clog your heater core and rad..... trust me we make a lot of money of those

Will do I’m hoping it’s something like that and for the misfire I’ll check the rocker arms and lifters see if they popped off and also do a compression test. Yesterday i put champion copper plugs i had back in and the misfire still persisted.

 

[Noclutch]

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Welp I guess i found the culprit to my misfire

 

[CheddarGau]

Thats exactly what happened to the one I got for my Niece, same cylinder. You will likely find a dropped valve seat. Pull the head, inspect the piston. If all is good order a new head. Also make sure you check the cam shaft key way. There is a chance the reluctor has spun and sheared the key way. If that's the case you will need a head and a cam. Rock auto has bare heads. If cam is good, then re-use and have machine shop install valves.

What may have happened is the lifter collapsed and the valve pounded away on the seat causing it to drop, or over heating the engine may also have caused it to be deformed and drop. Either way if the piston is good, it's not the worse thing to happen.

 

[Noclutch]

Thats exactly what happened to the one I got for my Niece, same cylinder. You will likely find a dropped valve seat. Pull the head, inspect the piston. If all is good order a new head. Also make sure you check the cam shaft key way. There is a chance the reluctor has spun and sheared the key way. If that's the case you will need a head and a cam. Rock auto has bare heads. If cam is good, then re-use and have machine shop install valves.

What may have happened is the lifter collapsed and the valve pounded away on the seat causing it to drop, or over heating the engine may also have caused it to be deformed and drop. Either way if the piston is good, it's not the worse thing to happen.

I was on my way to pick up a used head right now with mostly everything in there. What’s a good solid way to check if the piston is good and the key way? Appreciate your input brother, really clears the fog and helps me lay out a game plan to get my 04.KJ back on the road!

 

[CheddarGau]

I was on my way to pick up a used head right now with mostly everything in there. What’s a good solid way to check if the piston is good and the key way? Appreciate your input brother, really clears the fog and helps me lay out a game plan to get my 04.KJ back on the road!

Pull the cam reluctor. It will either be there sticking or or flat. If its flat its gone. New head will have a cam hopefully. Just make sure the new head doesn't have sludge built up around the valve train. Ideally pull a head from a jeep thats been in an accident. In theory they are better because they were running up until they were smashed.

If there is a mark in the piston like a dent then it kissed it. If all the crud (carbon) looks undisturbed its good. The spot that touched the piston will resemble the side of the valve that touched it. Good chance its fine.


Replace all the lifters. Its good preventative.

 

[Noclutch]

I’ll ask for the mileage on the head when i pick it up, the scrapyard said that they have it on the shelf. For $200 (my discount) I hope it’s a good head. Any advice on pulling the head and other components that should be changed while in there. It’s the passenger side head. US

 

[CheddarGau]

If anything is leaking replace it. PCV isnt a bad idea. Pretty much any gasket you touch, replace. Timing cover surface should be clean when you put new one back on. It's not a hard job, just take your time and make sure there are no spare parts. Make sure your timing marks (top dead center) line up ahead of time and you're good. It's a fairly primitive engine by modern standards. Only special tool is for turning the cam shaft to line it up, vice grips (not too tight) with a rag over the teeth will do in a pinch. You don't need to take of the driver side chain, passenger side chain leave on the crank (so you dont lose your cam mark) and put a mark where it goes on the cam shaft and put it back on in the same place. That said it is a good time to replace the chains, tensioners and guides, but make sure you look up the procedure, as you dont want the balance shaft to be out of time.

 

[Noclutch]

If anything is leaking replace it. PCV isnt a bad idea. Pretty much any gasket you touch, replace. Timing cover surface should be clean when you put new one back on. It's not a hard job, just take your time and make sure there are no spare parts. Make sure your timing marks (top dead center) line up ahead of time and you're good. It's a fairly primitive engine by modern standards. Only special tool is for turning the cam shaft to line it up, vice grips (not too tight) with a rag over the teeth will do in a pinch. You don't need to take of the driver side chain, passenger side chain leave on the crank (so you dont lose your cam mark) and put a mark where it goes on the cam shaft and put it back on in the same place. That said it is a good time to replace the chains, tensioners and guides, but make sure you look up the procedure, as you dont want the balance shaft to be out of time.

thank you! I was looking at the procedure and it might seem like something I can do if I follow all the instructions and put everything as it should be. I do most of the work on my own cars. But when it comes to timing the engine i still feel like a novice. Now I think this is the perfect time to put my skills to the test and also improve them by learning new things. I agree that it would be an ideal time to change out the chain, guides and tensioners I will be on the look for a kit.

 

[CheddarGau]

thank you! I was looking at the procedure and it might seem like something I can do if I follow all the instructions and put everything as it should be. I do most of the work on my own cars. But when it comes to timing the engine i still feel like a novice. Now I think this is the perfect time to put my skills to the test and also improve them by learning new things. I agree that it would be an ideal time to change out the chain, guides and tensioners I will be on the look for a kit.

You will also need a new plug or gasket for the plug that is behind the PS pump. You'll see it when you pull it. AC compressor and PS pump do not need to be taken out, you just swing them out of the way and don't pinch any lines. Just take your time and you'll be fine. I would also replace the head bolts on the side you take off and torque them properly.

 

[Luke]

Happy Halloween Peeps!
(playing with AI image generators lately)
Nothing says scary like a bunch of non black kittens in your roof basket

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[Luke]

Here’s one just for the Prof

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[profdlp]

^ Awesome!

But if you think that is scary, here are some truly terrifying pumpkins:

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[AJ9P]

So I got the mounting bracket for the etac. Can anyone tell me what kind of adhesive the factory used?

 

[CheddarGau]

Here’s one just for the Prof

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Needs more lights

 

[jack roykirk]

I replaced the clock spring a couple of weeks ago.

Replaced the heater blower motor resistor today. The fan works on all four speeds now for the first time in years.

 

[CheddarGau]

I looked at the wipers (today) I bought at work, because I need new ones and then I forgot to install them..... That was 3 weeks ago

 

[KJowner]

Never heard of them, but a company that specialises in blades (primarily for metal) is good enough for me. Choice is a bit bewildering, which do you recommend. I get the coarser teeth for thicker metal, but there seems to be more to it than that.

p.s. if they tame my, essentially, unusable Makita, that'd be a bonus.

I use the thick metal blades in my 110v Makita, drop the speed if you notice the blade getting hot.

 

[LibertyTC]

Nothing more annoying than a creaky drivers door hinge when its cold outside.
Fluid film seems to have worked.

 

[derekj]

Nothing more annoying than a creaky drivers door hinge when its cold outside.
Fluid film seems to have worked.

Fluid film is the best!

 

[CherokeeLiberty]

Currently waiting on a tow. I went to leave work, and there was a metallic ticking that gained with speed. It sounds like it’s coming from the rear end. I’m hoping it’s just a wheel bearing. There seems to be crunching with bumps and hard turns (I drove around the parking lot). The noise doesn’t care whether the t-case is in high or low gear. No fluid leaks have been seen, though.