What did you do to your jeep today?
- Thread starter TheQ
- Start date
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Well I already knew it was desperately in need of a fluid replacement and new filter. The chemicals that were in there were analyzed and they came back as not very good. So I just got done doing a flush and fill and filter on this old girl, and now it's shifting much much better. While I was driving I had the kid monitor my fancy expensive scan tools datapids for gear selection and torque converter lockup. Everything seemed to be working as it should, and it feels like it's shifting properly now. We'll see if that error code comes back or not. Right now as I posted before I'm going to go fight with an O2 sensor. It looks like it's been replaced at least once, as when I was under there I noticed that it was being held onto the crossmember with a blue zip tie. I'm suspecting, and hoping, but somebody just put in a cheap crappy oxygen sensor instead of the proper ntk sensor.
profdlp
Fired
Finally got this out the door. You should have it by Friday.
I hope it helps you get this figured out!
CheddarGau
Full Access Member
Agreed. Which scan tool are you using? I need to replace my b1s1.....heater is gone
How did you get JKU sliders on a KJ! Any mods necessary? Tx
wilton
Member
Everything turns out to be more work once I get started. At first I thought I would be able to use the factory brackets but didn't like the way they mounted. I cut off the factory slider brackets, flattened the pinch weld, welded four 1.25" .120 tubing to the slider and then to welded it to 3/16" plates on the "frame". I'll end up drilling some flat stock to rosette to the bottom since it's a thinner than I like.
picked up an Autel MS906Pro last year.
btw the P0700 isn't coming back, but now i'm getting P0740-TCC OUT OF RANGE.
hoping the clutch isn't fried.
had the kid monitoring the scan tool on the way to taekwondo tonight. it's shifting into all 4 gears, and it's indicating lockup selected and lockup achieved. hoping some drive time with some fresh fluid will help it start working again.
if not, anyone know of a drive procedure I can do to keep it from trying to actuate the TCC, such that I can get enough drive cycles in to set the monitors, and get over to inspection for a sticker?
hoping the clutch isn't fried.
had the kid monitoring the scan tool on the way to taekwondo tonight. it's shifting into all 4 gears, and it's indicating lockup selected and lockup achieved. hoping some drive time with some fresh fluid will help it start working again.
if not, anyone know of a drive procedure I can do to keep it from trying to actuate the TCC, such that I can get enough drive cycles in to set the monitors, and get over to inspection for a sticker?
Holy smokes that’s a pricy scanner. Is it worth it for the enthusiast?
like so many things, the answer is "it depends."
I got it "on sale" and used a 12 month 0% interest credit card to pay for it.
I own a bunch of early/mid-00 chryslers, will probably own more including potentially some early 10s if I have my way, and wanted something that can help definitively figure out what the problem(s) are, vs firing the Parts Cannon. Granted SBEC2 and NGC3/4 ecu's are pretty reliable with their MIL codes, but earlier it was saying that both cats were bad. I'm beginning to get more experience with it, so i'm learning how to use it more effectively (like the graphing of the downstream O2 sensors) to more accurately pinpoint problems.
It also does things like calibrate sensors and initialize modules (prior owner had replaced the ABS module, which wasn't initialized correctly. this tool can do that. It let me trace down a Dash Emoji ABS related problem, which wound up being a damaged ABS wire in the rear, which was the primary cause as to why the module couldn't be initialized.) and with the PIN code you can do all kinds of other expensive options (replace ECUs, WCM, SKIM/SCREEM, program keys and remotes, etc.)
There's certainly even more capabilities I don't know it has, until I bump into a problem that uses them.
I STRONGLY urge people to get the PIN code for their vehicle now, while you still can. If anyone needs a source I'll let them know the source I used.
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So that's not helping.
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But wait, what's this? That doesn't look right.
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You have to be kidding me. I mean you seriously have to be kidding me. And look at the one down the middle. It's all wrapped in tape?
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Yep. Somebody screwed up the insulation on it, probably in the process of doing whatever the hell they were doing with the splices.
I really really hate hack mechanics. It's not a hard sensor to get to. It's not hard to replace. It's not even that expensive. Just change the damn thing!
Sadly, I just installed and plugged in my one that I had sitting on the shelf over here in an open box, that looks like it was a pull out of something, and it doesn't work. So now I will have to go buy one.
wilton
Member
Is that the left rear O2 sensor? I had mine scraped like that from the front driveshaft because the wire wasn't secured. It kind of looks like the same damage and someone tried repairing it.
well my one in the box I had here is dead. granted it's a save from something else jobber, so I didn't know it was bad bad.
got the jeep down, got all cleaned up, started thinking about the day's projects, and it dawned on me... doesn't the parts car use the same sensors. sure enough, jeep uses 4 NTK 23159 sensors, and the 2.7L sebrings do as well. so I'm snatching at least one (possibly 2) from the parts car and testing them. Not willing to pay $60 locally for a sensor, when we're still not sure if this jeep is road viable.
got the jeep down, got all cleaned up, started thinking about the day's projects, and it dawned on me... doesn't the parts car use the same sensors. sure enough, jeep uses 4 NTK 23159 sensors, and the 2.7L sebrings do as well. so I'm snatching at least one (possibly 2) from the parts car and testing them. Not willing to pay $60 locally for a sensor, when we're still not sure if this jeep is road viable.
Where did you get the PIN & can they do export codes?
<redacted>
so this 1/2 O2 is kicking my butt. pulled 3 of the 4 sensors from the parts car. all seem to "act" almost like the one that was all munched up. haven't taken it for a drive yet, as I was testing with multiple sensors. even swapped 2/2 into 1/2, and it acted the same.
either there's something wonky with the wiring, or i'm fearing the left cat might be hurt.
considering a seafoam treatment if this thing tosses a bad 1/2 MIL on the drive tonight.
might even prep for it in the walmart parking lot.
so this 1/2 O2 is kicking my butt. pulled 3 of the 4 sensors from the parts car. all seem to "act" almost like the one that was all munched up. haven't taken it for a drive yet, as I was testing with multiple sensors. even swapped 2/2 into 1/2, and it acted the same.
either there's something wonky with the wiring, or i'm fearing the left cat might be hurt.
considering a seafoam treatment if this thing tosses a bad 1/2 MIL on the drive tonight.
might even prep for it in the walmart parking lot.
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ok something is seriously wonky with this thing's trannie.
it threw a trannie over temp emoji on the way home.
so I get home and I check on things, and it's low on fluid apparently. added another quart and it's now at the top of hot.
light went out during that time.
so I reached down CAREFULLY while the engine was running, and felt the trannie cooler lines. they were STONE COLD.
at least ONE of them should have been hot, right?
let's take a guess on something...
could someone have left the plugs in the newly installed radiator, and the transmission would still work?
I seem to remember seeing some diagrams that say the fluid circuit path is exiting the torque converter and out to the cooler?
I am NOT an auto trannie guy. This is why I prefer manuals.
it threw a trannie over temp emoji on the way home.
so I get home and I check on things, and it's low on fluid apparently. added another quart and it's now at the top of hot.
light went out during that time.
so I reached down CAREFULLY while the engine was running, and felt the trannie cooler lines. they were STONE COLD.
at least ONE of them should have been hot, right?
let's take a guess on something...
could someone have left the plugs in the newly installed radiator, and the transmission would still work?
I seem to remember seeing some diagrams that say the fluid circuit path is exiting the torque converter and out to the cooler?
I am NOT an auto trannie guy. This is why I prefer manuals.
If i'm reading this right, I've got it all backwards.
Bank 1 is working correctly, and it is Bank 2 that's AFU.
the downstream sensor should be relatively stable, and not switching like my graph in https://www.jeepkj.com/threads/what-did-you-do-to-your-jeep-today.50782/post-804933 shows.
That would correlate then with the P0430 code going stored on the way home.
