What did you do to your jeep today?

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Damotee

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Does racing a my Cherokee around a race track count as doing something to it?

Youtube Link - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2rBucPBB4_Q

haha thats awesome! Your Jeep sounded great, too. Have you done any mods to it? Is it lifted? It handled those corners at speed with ease.

you're like, my spirit animal.

And apparently aussies are less serious about shit. I couldn't do that here. my local track would absolutely shit themselves.

Ha Australia is becoming a bit of a nanny state. Usually you cant pick your nose without the government wanting to know how many fingers you used and then tax you on your handy work. :emotions34:

I wonder if this could also be a factor with some of ours...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nHf6Eyxn2ok

Yep, seems like an identical setup. It's really frustrating. Im sure its wearing out my transmission faster. Parking on any sort of slope, the transmission takes all of the load. Then going from P to R I get this awful crunch/grind/thumkp as the weight is released from Park. Just grinding away at those cogs. Not to mention I have ZERO faith in the handbrake when off roading.
 

tommudd

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Finally got started MUDDifying the Matrix front bumper. Have had my plans drawn up for what 3-4 years, but just seriously started this evening . Now to find someone to do a small amount of fab work for me, ( or buy a tubing bender etc ) . May go exhaust tubing for the "mock up" of some parts
 

sota

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I have a custom roof rack I want to design. I'll probably mock it up in PVC, then drop it off at a shop to have made.
 

HoosierJeeper

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I wonder if I missed a bit of rust on the caliper if the pad could also be cocked a bit. If the piston is cocked, would that mean a new caliper?

Maybe, you could try compressing it flat again, but my guess is it won't let you compress it if it's cocked. Calipers are like $40, so not a big deal. I found a procedure of how to replace it without having to bleed all the brakes, let me know if you want it and I'll post it.
 

HoosierJeeper

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Before you start push the pedal down to where you feel good pressure and block it there with something (I put a tool box against it to hold it), that blocks off the ports in the master cylinder and won't allow any fluid from leaving the reservoir. Change out the bad caliper completely, take the pedal block off, top off the reservoir, open that bleeder and watch for the solid stream of fluid to happen, use a clear tube so you can make sure there aren't bubbles in it. Make sure you don't let the reservoir run empty and refill to the proper level. Put the master cylinder cover back on, pump the pedal up to seat the caliper piston and recheck the fill level.
 

StillOnTheRun44

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That is awesome!!!

The KJ laying down a little rubber on the apex of some turns at the local track. That looks SO FUN! :winner_third_h4h:

Bob

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2rBucPBB4_Q

Alittle more information about the day - Mallala Motorsport track had an open day.

3 classes - Full CAMs licence (race licence)
- Mixed (CAMs and open)
- Open (the class i was in)

best lap time was 1min 52seconds
top speed 121kms/h (75mile/h)
Race Circuit per lap is 2.6 km long (1.6 miles)

Was actually great fun racing around in something 2tonns heavier than anything else on the track and super under powered with the 2.4L.

Everyone loved it! I will have to track down one of the photographers that were there on the day to see if any photos were taken.
 

sota

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2.4L, SRT-4 conversion, stage 3 turbo, 750cc injectors, BFMIC, tune.
I so want to build one. THAT would be interesting on a race track.
 

MTKross

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Electronic cooling fan went out. I have the HD cooling system with the mechanical fan too.

Replacement fan for HD was about $160-$200 vs the $50 for the non-HD fans. So I just bought the cheaper one and took the motor out of it and put it back in the HD housing. Works great and saved me $$$$ which is what I like


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

tommudd

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Replaced the front axles yesterday. Had some problems getting the intermediate shaft off, but nothing too terrible.

I also replaced the LBJ's too. I wasted $70 on the ones with grease zerks. I had to cap them because the zerk was hitting the axle.

Because I have the JBA coil overs, found that I had to back them off to about an inch (from 2.5") to get it to move enough to manuever the shafts out - also to get the bolt out. Be careful when compressing to get them to seat properly top and bottom where the springs rest - they wanna get cockeyed. Reconnect, then crank it back to your setting, then put the knuckle back on.

Tried to replace the front drive shaft but couldn't break loose those tiny little bolts. Couldn't get a socket on them and the box end felt ready to round. ***** because I still have the vibration. Thing is though, the one in there appears to be fairly new and no real play.

Going to try new ujoints in the rear, then alignment and if that doesn't work, have a shop do that front one.

You bought the wrong ball joints if you can not grease them, fitting should come out from the side so you can get a grease gun on them.
Very easy to change CVs with the Coilovers , I just turn the knobs so no pressure, run the nuts back up and easy to push up
 

Dave

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The pig got an oil change. Much more crap to do but that's all for now.

Dave
 

rockdart

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You bought the wrong ball joints if you can not grease them, fitting should come out from the side so you can get a grease gun on them.
Very easy to change CVs with the Coilovers , I just turn the knobs so no pressure, run the nuts back up and easy to push up

NAPA had two choices - zerkless or zerked. Only end cap zerk - no side options. Guy who pressed them looked at them funny too, but didn't say anything. Just stopped working on the F150 he was currently working on, popped it in, took the cash and out the door I went.

Didn't even think about the pressure settings. DERP! :insane:

Dropped off the main drive shaft today at: "Bill's Englewood Drive Shaft". $115 for new grease-able ujoints, balancing and paint. Guy does great work too - and will custom build if you need it too.
 
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Royy

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Replaced the muffler and tailpipe. The old muffler had a couple of holes in it, and one of the hanger hooks the the tailpipe broke off because it was completely rusted through.

I went with a Walker FX and the corresponding tailpipe. It was just the cheapest I could find, because I don't really care what it sounds like (as long as it's not obnoxious). Plus it's a simple bolt-on replacement, no welding required.
It's actually surprisingly quiet :icon_smile:

I also ordered a couple of bearing races from Advance Auto that I should be able to use as adapters with a ball joint kit to finally get the LCA bushings done. Once I get that done I can finally do my whole front end overhaul.
 

tjkj2002

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Somewhere between being sane and insane!
NAPA had two choices - zerkless or zerked. Only end cap zerk - no side options. Guy who pressed them looked at them funny too, but didn't say anything. Just stopped working on the F150 he was currently working on, popped it in, took the cash and out the door I went.

Didn't even think about the pressure settings. DERP! :insane:

Dropped off the main drive shaft today at: "Bill's Englewood Drive Shaft". $115 for new grease-able ujoints, balancing and paint. Guy does great work too - and will custom build if you need it too.

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The MOOG's with grease zerks.
 

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