Waiting on parts .........wonder what that is like :emotions34:
I just go to the lower garage and dig :happy175:
What did you do to your jeep today?
- Thread starter TheQ
- Start date
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Waiting on parts .........wonder what that is like :emotions34:
I just go to the lower garage and dig :happy175:
profdlp
Fired
I have it even easier. I just wait until I have the money in the bank, which sometimes takes years. Saves me a lot of trips to the lower garage. :Violin:
profdlp
Fired
TC, I'm surprised to see you here. I figured by now you'd be too high to post. :smoke2:
Kim'sJeep
New Member
Wow.. I guess you heard about the legalization here ! :gr_grin::smokin:
Now you got your own store front.. on High Street LOL..
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Even Cheech keeps his wheels clean ha ha..
Link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Alyx4QeRRdg
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profdlp
Fired
Now that you mention it, it does sound like a euphemism for something.
Tom, are you telling us that you just pull these parts out of...? :icon_eek:
uss2defiant
Full Access Member
didn't have much time today to finish up the rear LCA but I got the new rear LCA in and the jack stands on the axle so I can wrap it up tomorrow after work.
Another question:
I removed both rear LCA instead of replacing it one at a time (should have read my Haynes manual first) so the axle rotated on me after getting the passenger side RLCA. Took some struggle but I got the driver side in.
With the axle on jack stands, I noticed that the passenger side RLCA can shake freely in its mounts but not the driver side. I think the rear axle is still slightly rotated with the driver side slightly to the rear.
Is this an issue before I torque the nuts to spec?
As in should both rear LCA shake freely?
If this is an issue. Do i just drop the whole rear axle for a moment so the axle is back to its original plane? I read in the FSM that you don't want the rear suspension hanging on the rear ball joint on the pumpkin.
Hope this makes sense.
Thank you in advance!
Another question:
I removed both rear LCA instead of replacing it one at a time (should have read my Haynes manual first) so the axle rotated on me after getting the passenger side RLCA. Took some struggle but I got the driver side in.
With the axle on jack stands, I noticed that the passenger side RLCA can shake freely in its mounts but not the driver side. I think the rear axle is still slightly rotated with the driver side slightly to the rear.
Is this an issue before I torque the nuts to spec?
As in should both rear LCA shake freely?
If this is an issue. Do i just drop the whole rear axle for a moment so the axle is back to its original plane? I read in the FSM that you don't want the rear suspension hanging on the rear ball joint on the pumpkin.
Hope this makes sense.
Thank you in advance!
I'll try some ideas here...lesson = one control arm at a time Ok..You just became the test pilot on this one.
Anyways, keep the LCA bolts loosened a bit, they only get fully tightened once the full weight is back on them.
If I understand this right, one side has rotated a bit. Any twisting motion not good and re-alignment is probably needed.
Since I am not there to see what is going on...you may have to strap the axle to turn it a bit, even possibly loosen the lower shock mount, if it does not budge.
As long as the spring is in it correct position, and you able to get the bolts all back for the LCA's you hopefully will be ok, & then tighten them up, once on the ground.
Anyways, keep the LCA bolts loosened a bit, they only get fully tightened once the full weight is back on them.
If I understand this right, one side has rotated a bit. Any twisting motion not good and re-alignment is probably needed.
Since I am not there to see what is going on...you may have to strap the axle to turn it a bit, even possibly loosen the lower shock mount, if it does not budge.
As long as the spring is in it correct position, and you able to get the bolts all back for the LCA's you hopefully will be ok, & then tighten them up, once on the ground.
uss2defiant
Full Access Member
Yeah... definitely a lesson there.
To clarify, I already have both new RLCA in place with the bolts in the mounting point with the nuts threaded in up to the top thread of the stover lock nut. They have not been tighten at all.
With the rear axles on jack stands, the passenger side RLCA can move freely when I shake it by hand but the other has no freedom of movement. When i had both RLCA unbolted at the same, the rear axle had rotated slightly (counter clock wise, looking from the top down on the jeep) with the driverside moving back as I slid the passenger side forward to get its RLCA in place.
Does it matter if one RLCA can freely move (rear axles on jack stands) and the other cannot before I start tightening the nut to spec?
Thanks. Sorry. It's my first time dealing with suspension parts.
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I would lower it down, with everything loose and rock it around a little bit to settle it. Then jack it back up and see if they both move freely. If so, then lower it and torque everything.
Is it possible that one of the LCA mounts isn't as open as the other and is creating some binding? I had that happen with one of my shock mounts.
Is it possible that one of the LCA mounts isn't as open as the other and is creating some binding? I had that happen with one of my shock mounts.
uss2defiant
Full Access Member
So with the jackstands on the frame rail, I did try and lower the rear axle. I got it to a certain point that both RLCA could shake freely but did not let the whole axle hang loose since I wasn't sure if that was okay to do. The FSM warned against doing that.
I think I'll start a thread before my issue is buried in this thread.
Thanks
Kim'sJeep
New Member
Installed my LED bar light. 
The wiring was the hardest thing. Well, running it inside the car was. A coat hanger and tape helped me get it through.
I still need to figure out where I want to permanently install the switch, but for now this works. I also need to tie it into the ignition. Right now I just left one of the jumper wires off to keep the light on the switch from running the whole time.
Just the normal headlights and driving lights.
With light bar on. I need to angle it down a bit, but it is pretty darn bright.
The wiring was the hardest thing. Well, running it inside the car was. A coat hanger and tape helped me get it through.
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I still need to figure out where I want to permanently install the switch, but for now this works. I also need to tie it into the ignition. Right now I just left one of the jumper wires off to keep the light on the switch from running the whole time.
You must be registered for see images attach
Just the normal headlights and driving lights.
You must be registered for see images attach
With light bar on. I need to angle it down a bit, but it is pretty darn bright.
You must be registered for see images attach
TorrentIV
A Leaf on the Wind
Got those godawfully heavy back seats pulled out, even though the **@#$*+ hinges bit me
turblediesel
memberable
Accidentally bumped the stealth button on my CRD while I was sweeping the shop so I slapped the unmentionable on the exhaust manifold with the gadget from the plumbing aisle. Goobered the v-clamp on it and it seems good even though I can't see it.
Maybe I can put some more parts on it before it "stealths" again.
Feels good to make any progress on it.
Maybe I can put some more parts on it before it "stealths" again.
Feels good to make any progress on it.
Aceofspades
Full Access Member
Installed my LED bar light.
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I still need to figure out where I want to permanently install the switch, but for now this works. I also need to tie it into the ignition. Right now I just left one of the jumper wires off to keep the light on the switch from running the whole time.
You must be registered for see images attach
Just the normal headlights and driving lights.
You must be registered for see images attach
With light bar on. I need to angle it down a bit, but it is pretty darn bright.
You must be registered for see images attach
Looks great. If you add more or change it in the future - they make a wireless kit for the light. Just connect to the battery and use the key fob
