What did you do to your jeep today?

[Leeann]

I bought 4 new screw band clamps to replace the spring band type
Never had issues before.
So gonna dig into now see what’s up

They don't work as well as the spring clamps.

 

[HoosierJeeper]

Mine leaked with spring clamps, I think spring clamps are very sensitive to hose thickness...wish Jeep sold the hoses with the clamps already attached like Land Rover does.

 

[ltd02]

I got constant tension ones for mine on the lower, they look like the screw ones but have a spring in them that keeps the tension.

Yeah those are really nice. Any rad hose replacements I do from now on will be with those. I still have the original spring clamps on my 05. Even have the original spring style on my 98 Ranger after a few hose changes. Never a drip. Regardless, I'll still probably switch to the constant tension ones next time.

 

[dude1116]

Tried to do the CV, intermediate shaft, seal, and bearing. The seal and bearing are IMPOSSIBLE to remove. The bearing puller I rented was too big, unfortunately. It scored the tube a bit... Not sure what my next move will be.

Also nearly stripped my lower end link bolt. Looks like I gotta track that down tomorrow...

 

[dude1116]

Also forgot to mention that I have a socket stuck to the lower end link bolt that won't come off for anything. I may just install the bolt back with the socket on it. [emoji23] Might be easier than finding the bolt or trying to remove the socket. It's a 9/16 socket because the 15mm started to round the bolt.

 

[CzarKJ]

I had to use a relief cut with a dremel to get my seal and bearing out. Gotta be super careful but it can be done.

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[HoosierJeeper]

Do you guys have the plastic or metal bearings? Mine has the metal roller ones.

 

[dude1116]

Do you guys have the plastic or metal bearings? Mine has the metal roller ones.

Mine had metal and I'm replacing with the same.

Current status- bearing slipped by the seal. Seal is not wanting to budge...

I don't think I have a Dremel attachment that can cut this metal. Also a bit nervous about cutting it without buggering up the tube.

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[HoosierJeeper]

Is the seal inside of the tube? I've never looked at mine. If it's pressed on the outside, get a gasket scraper and a BFH and pound it in from the edge to make it kinked, then gently pry around the edge and it should fall right out.

 

[dude1116]

Is the seal inside of the tube? I've never looked at mine. If it's pressed on the outside, get a gasket scraper and a BFH and pound it in from the edge to make it kinked, then gently pry around the edge and it should fall right out.

Finally got it. There was barely enough lip to bend the seal. I tried that for sure.

I had to use the slide hammer I rented in a not so ethical way. I took the internal 3 claw puller, and twisted the slide hammer on until the threaded portion of the hammer was pushing the 3 hooks out. The hooks pushed into the seal, and I hammered away.

Pictures are attached...but I think Tapatalk isn't loading them anymore for some reason.

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[Akley88]

ordered the y link extension, only took minor persuasion

 

[duderz7]

Been hearing a bit of clunking over small road chatter coming from the rear end. So today I jacked it up and everything I could think of a wiggle, tug, and pry. All seems well except end play at the rear axlesin and out. How much is normal?

 

[tommudd]

Been hearing a bit of clunking over small road chatter coming from the rear end. So today I jacked it up and everything I could think of a wiggle, tug, and pry. All seems well except end play at the rear axlesin and out. How much is normal?

2 inches thats about normal.................
They all have some, just due to how they are made, unless it is 2 inches don't worry about it
Check shocks and bushings on them, they can appear normal but worn clear out

 

[duderz7]

2 inches thats about normal.................
They all have some, just due to how they are made, unless it is 2 inches don't worry about it
Check shocks and bushings on them, they can appear normal but worn clear out

Thanks, I might remove the shock on the suspected side to see how it feels of the jeep. On a side note, I can't figure out how to post pictures. Admittedly I'm not so good with computers in general.

 

[Tog]

had to do that on a pilot bearing once thing came except the outer race 4 cuts and a cold chisel and it shattered

I had to use a relief cut with a dremel to get my seal and bearing out. Gotta be super careful but it can be done.

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2004 3.7 limited

 

[cplchris]

ordered new pads and rotors, next will be the E-brake shoes, hardware and cable.

 

[Aceofspades]

It was the clamps. A new set and so far no issues. House brand vs whatever I used the first time. Let’s hope no more leaks now

 

[krisP]

got sick of the abs lights and the no cruise control after replacing sensors and harnesses, so i took out all the wiring and found a break right where it goes up into the body....finally no more lights.... also found a pretty good rear pinion seal leak

 

[ltd02]

Cleaned some carbon out of it on the way home, if you know what I mean... :signs6:

 

[GitEmSteveDave]

In her case it's contamination on the rotor face. She stops so late and so hard, then has to stand on the brakes to keep the car from moving ($#()$# automatics) that it causes an uneven cooling rate on the rotor, and winds up leaving an imprint of the pad on the rotor. Over time that contamination stops wearing off, and you get uneven brake application. There's no run out issue with the rotor either (i've had them checked), they just get messed up because she stops like a moron.

I had such a fear of that that I would always slide into neutral after braking at lights so that I could go off the brakes and let them cool. Although that was in my Dodge 3500 w/a Allison Towing ****** so going from N to D was never much of a stress on the trans.