Talk to anyone who has been at my place, no drinking until the job is done LOLsometimes I think @tommudd has a carcaine problem that's interrupting his drinking problem
ALTHOUGH , sometimes it seems a pull from the quart jar would make it easier
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Talk to anyone who has been at my place, no drinking until the job is done LOLsometimes I think @tommudd has a carcaine problem that's interrupting his drinking problem
I was around when the Dead Sea was just starting to get sick ...........................................nah. he's just old. babysat for the Willy's designer's parents.
My advice is do passengers side first and clean off any oil sludge on valve cover bolts and also make sure to note where each valve cover bolt goes because half are stud and bolt. Plus have a lot of break cleaner and degreaser, you get a lot more room to clean bottom end of engine and other things once air box and heater hoses are out the way. Driver side is easier a lot of the same process, unplugging wiring and clearing anything in way only slight trouble I ran into was fitting my hand to get bottom bolt on valve cover near steering column. PitaGood to know it's possible, as it's something mine badly needs - but in the 8 months I've had it, I've not seen them much less be able to get to them.
That worked! All is clear now. Thanks a bunch!Now that the fluid's everywhere it needs to be, try resetting the codes by disconnecting the battery terminals and taping them together for 15-20 minutes? Probably tossed the code due to lack of fluid pressure on start up.
For those who have been wondering, I got gas today at my usual Costco gas station (after installing a new charcoal canister a couple of weeks ago), let it go until the auto shutoff stopped the flow and NO fuel burp!!! For the first time in 10+ years. Usually I get doused unless I do the miles-per-gallon math and stop before it's full.
Will admit that one event is not a statistically significant sample yet.
In other news, the dreaded "very small Evap leak" code is back. Sigh. Out of ideas what to try next.
Not that exact bolt, but I’ve had to deal with them before. Find a socket that is just too tight to fit and pound it on. Get a replacement bolt before the repair if you don’t have another vehicle.Has anyone had to deal with a stripped 8mm bolt on the thermostat housing. I was on my way to replace the thermostat when I noticed one of the bolts was rounded off to the t.
I have a replacement thermostat housing and (2) replacement 8mm bolts plus the thermostat. I actually tried to fit a few sockets on, standard and metric the only problem is pounding it in there, there is limited space with the sway bar and other Parts in the way. I was going to try and use a extractor bit on a drill but not enough space without removing radiator and possibly ac condenser. might try a dremel but that’s last option.Not that exact bolt, but I’ve had to deal with them before. Find a socket that is just too tight to fit and pound it on. Get a replacement bolt before the repair if you don’t have another vehicle.
If that doesn’t work, or you don’t have a socket to sacrifice, there are sockets made for extracting rounded off bolts.
Do so agree about common sense, just wished I'd applied that when tackling the axleshaft, instead of being hopelessly mislead by the manual. Not sure about the time for the front diff. I reckon I'll be lucky to do it in a weekend, I mean for us mere mortals just removing the axleshafts must be 1 1/2 hrs a side - but I'm encouraged to tackle the job with renewed enthusiasm (however, right now the XJ with the window that won't go back up is, somewhat bizarrely, more pressing).Common sense , just very simple to look and see what needs removed
Some make it seem harder than it actually is in real life
Just like removing the front diff, if you go by the JEEP LIBERTY Service manual put out by Jeep it shows 3 hours or so to just remove , but once underneath a couple of cut bolts , a few to remove and you can R&R one in way less than time
I never assume anything, from first posts you can usually tell if someone doesn't know the difference between a tack hammer or a 3 pound sledge . Then go from there
Do you have a 90 degree adaptor for your drill? DeWalt and Milwaukee both have good ones for $20 or less.I have a replacement thermostat housing and (2) replacement 8mm bolts plus the thermostat. I actually tried to fit a few sockets on, standard and metric the only problem is pounding it in there, there is limited space with the sway bar and other Parts in the way. I was going to try and use a extractor bit on a drill but not enough space without removing radiator and possibly ac condenser. might try a dremel but that’s last option.
This is a great area. Hope you enjoyed it. Got me thinking of planning a trip now....Jeepy and I explored part of the Green Ridge State Forest today.
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There are all sorts of dirt roads, mostly one lane, that wind through hollows and over creeks, then up and over mountains.
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Sometimes there are bridges.
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Sometimes there aren’t.
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There are over 100 primitive campsites in the state forest that can be reserved at the forest headquarters for $10 a night. Each one has a picnic table and a fire pit.
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Saw some local wildlife.
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(There’s a deer in the trees)
I even found a road named after me!
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It was a two track that ended at a closed gate after about a mile and a half. There were a couple of great campsites and a 1940’s era hunting cabin down there. Pretty cool.
Cooling off the drivetrain and enjoying a snack.
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It was a fun afternoon exploring. I saw no other vehicles except for a few parked at their campsites. This place is HUGE and I don’t think I even scratched the surface.
Back at my campsite for the evening.
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The roads are not technically challenging for a 4x4 vehicle, at least on the dry summer day that I went, but that didn't take away from the sense of adventure. (Some of the stream crossings and steep slopes would be challenging after a heavy rain though!) There are so many remote places in the GRSF to explore, the scenery is beautiful, and all the numbered campsites I found were in good shape. You could do several trips and not see the same stuff twice.This is a great area. Hope you enjoyed it. Got me thinking of planning a trip now....
I have only pumped gas once since I replaced it. Would not take that one event as proof that the burp problem is permanently fixed. I replaced the canister to take care of a long-standing Evap leak (which it didn't, lol). The possible positive effect on fuel burp was the mechanic's sales pitch to get me to replace yet another part...Ive heard of people fixing this issue by installing a check valve into the filler neck. Are you saying a new charcoal canister can fix this issue too?